Life the Way I See It

2012 Resolutions and Goals

2011-12-14T12:27:00.000+08:00

Wow, I am back on a regular annual schedule. As I posted last August on my New Year blog post in 2010, my resolution tended to follow a school year instead of a regular year. Not any more. I didn't have many goal with that post, but life sure has changed since.

August one year to date, my wonderful wife and I, with our business partner opened our own gym. Plenty of details on this blog about that already, so won't bore you with detail. This new directions in life means I can now focus on growing the business and still get a simple climbing workout while working.

While my new business means no extended eight summer vacations anymore, it does open the opportunity to visit and explore some East Java cliffs that were just far enough to be out of reach for two day trips. It also means I can concentrate on some new routes development for Indonesia's growing climbing community.

My big goal this year still focuses on establishing a new independent route on Spikul. 1200 vertical feet of climbing of crimps, seams, and hopeful cracks. Considering how little has been done on this great formation, an independent line should be easy, but my alternate goal to establish a all free route that uses mostly clean pro and few bolts. (I'll bolt the belays to make rappelling easier)

My partners, and sometimes me, have also been cleaning some cliff near Surabaya and those should be ready to bolt some fun new sport routes on now. Of course, the rain has set in, so I may have to wait awhile. At least I can train in the gym while the weather isn't cooperating.

This year, I'll turn 40 and have given myself a personal goal of 40 on 40. Not anew concept, just 40 pitches of climbing on my birthday.

Looking forward to another great year.

Studio Ligths and Bouldering

2011-12-09T18:36:00.000+08:00

Playing with the studio lights at the gym. More images compning soon.

Ernita

Getting focused

Reach and Success


Happy Climber

Climbing Commercial Citi Bank

2011-12-02T12:59:00.003+08:00

Peter Beal, at his blog once again lives in his Boulder bubble. His rant, about a Citibank ad that features Katie Brown and Alex Honnold and how climbers who work money are selling out. His view, people earning money with climbing are destroying the sport, of course, he does still manage to charge for his book on how to boulder better.

He writes, "I thought to myself, this is interesting. Since when did climbing become so capitalistic? Obviously climbers have "sold out" before. We all have to some degree."

Beal speak about the big bad bank, the economic decline, and ask whether it's worth risking our lives in this sport, keep in mind he primarily boulders, if our sport become some commercialized.

Personally, I found this commercial to be quite good for the a climbing clip. I use a credit card from to time, mine is with USAA and I even use my miles for free trips when the opportunity comes up. Here in Indonesia, I have local Citi Bank Credit card too. Makes dealing with the exchange rate much easier.

To Beal I say, "get over yourself." You publish a book on how to boulder better and sell it. (making money on climbing and convincing other to try it)You write a blog attacking how easy it is to enter the sport, how climbers should be more independents, and why the climbing community should fight consumerism, all this while living in the comforts of your Boulder residence.

For those of you who haven't seen the commercial:

Two Climbing Books

2011-11-29T20:13:00.000+08:00

As a former service member and someone who lives overseas, I realize how difficult it can be to find climbing information when we relocate.

While serving, I was stationed in Hohenfel Germany and had regular access to the excellent sport climbing of Frankenjura. Actually, coming from California and having learned to climb in Yosemite and lake Tahoe, Germany was my first taste of sport climbing. At first I reluctantly climbed sport routes, but soon realized that sport climbing was fun.

My next duty station was Fort Campbell in Clarksville Tennessee. Took my less than 24 hours to find the local cliff, King's Bluff. After leaving the service, I even based myself in Clarksville and managed a climbing gym, owned a climbing guide service, and climb the Bluff every chance I had. While there, I put together the first Edition of Little Crimpers, A Climber's Guide to King's Bluff. This Guide is now on it's third edition and includes a couple other climbing areas of interest to Climbers living or stationed in Clarksville. Little Crimpers is available at Amzon.com

Eventually, I sold my guide service and relocated to Okinawa, Japan. Okinawa has ahuge Marine Corp and Air-force presence and I was very impressed with both branches, but what impressed me the most about Okinawa was the untapped climbing potential. Sure, they were a few routes when I arrived, but they was alot of rock waiting to be climbed too. While there, my various partners and I added a couple hundred routes tot he island, and I took on the task of putting together another climbing guidebook. Aga, A Climber's Guide to Okinawa is also available on Amazon.

Now, I putting up routes in Indonesia, slowly putting together anew guidebook to East Java so climbers passing through can find the cliffs and routes. I have to admit, the rock climbing potential in East Java is immense.

Bouldering on perfect Granite Boulders with soft landing, Climbing Splitter Basalt cracks for 400 meters, scaling 600 meters walls above rice paddies. Who knows, maybe Indonesia will be on the International CLimbing Destination List.

Dirt Bag Climber are still around

2011-11-24T14:28:00.002+08:00

Andrew Bisharat recently wrote, "Climbing used to be a refuge for social derelicts. The best climbers in the world were often the poorest people. Today, the best climbers are instead some of the richest."

Over at Mountains and Water Peter Beals say "The world of climbing never talks about that reality, referring instead to the "dirtbag" lifestyle, a cliché that is sounding just a bit too detached from the economic trauma this country is currently undergoing. If you have time to go off and climb rocks all over the world and not have to work all the time to support this habit, you are not a dirtbag. You are the 1% or damn close to it. And the demographics of the sport reflect this fact. Climbers are typically white, male, and typically have incomes in the upper five figures or higher. In other words the leisure class really only operates these days on one end of the spectrum, assuming the pretend climbing hoboes of yesteryear ever really belonged to the other."

The top 1% on American society are indeed not top tier climbers, they are too worried about earning money and making money to spend time visiting obscure cliffs all over the world. I say obscure, because of you're not a climber, I doubt you can tell the difference between the Tonsai Tower and Verdon Gorge with one quick look of a person scaling either.

While many climbers do earn a living climbing full time via endorsement of various products, not many are reaching the six figure salaries both of these blog post imply. Yes, a few do, maybe a dozen or two at that, but in today's world, even a six figure income doesn't qualify you for the top 1%.

Over the last decade, I've had the privilege of hosting many of the dirt-bag climbers who travel across Asia. I'd say we have a climber living in our house roughly five months out of the year. In December, my wife and I will be hosting two climbers for an extended stay here in Indonesia. Of over 100 climbers we've hosted in our house, many on extended trips across South East Asia's climbing area, non were making six figure salaries before they left the states or Europe. Most were very short on money and living on Ramen and rice while trying to live life to the fullest.

if you really believe the dirt-bag climber lifestyle is of year years is over, a both of you need to visit a few more trad climbing areas in the states. On my yearly summer trips, we meet plenty of climbers, living out of van or pick-up, doing the odd job here or there. Many of them climb hard, some don't, all are living on minimum money for years at time to climb as much as possible.

While I can't speak for Europe, I meet plenty of dirt-bag climbers around Asia too. Some work for a 150 USD a month guiding in Vietnam just so they can climb more. Visit Tonsai and ask some of the "local foreigners" how long they have there with low income and loving life because they live in a climber's paradise. While asking the full-time foreign local, maybe you can questions the ones who are just there for winter how much money they're earning or have in the bank.

I do think that place like Riffle has a higher incme per climber, but I also think that sport climbing appeal to people who work full time. It's easier to get started, much quicker to see progress, and more social when at the cliffs than trad climbing in the America.

Plenty of climbers are still giving up houses, regular income, and trips tot he restaurant in order to maintain climbing lifestyle.

World Climbing: Rock Odyssey by Simon Carter

2011-10-09T10:49:00.000+08:00

As both a climber and photographer, I am a big fan of Simon Carter's photography. The first images I saw of his were climber's scaling gorgeous Orange rock formations in Australia, followed by some shots of Arapile, a places I've always wanted to explore and climb and will soon.

I've already ordered my copy and can't wait to see over 200 images of climbing around the world. Want to know more about the book and what it has to offer, check out Simon Carter's Blog here.

Rock Climbing and Stock Photography

2011-10-05T10:55:00.000+08:00

Editorial Sale

The other day I received an email from a photography friend of mine; he commented on my lack of post about photography lately. He asked if I was no longer going to continue supplying stock photos to various agencies I belong to because I now own a completely different business. Because I was in the process of editing photos for one of the libraries, I sort of smiled to myself.

As a climber first and a photographer second, I can't imagine doing one without the other. Let's face it, climbing is the vehicle that allows me to visit places I would never hear of otherwise. Places like the secluded corner of China, the remote big walls of East Java in Indonesia, or the tourist and sun-drenched beaches of Southern Thailand. Photography is the tool that allows me to share my adventure with my friends when I return.


Indonesian Ladies Sorting Coffee beans

Giving up photography isn't going to happen anytime soon, and if I'm taking photos that meet the needs of a stock library, photo-editor, or other user, why not license the image and help me pay for my next climbing trips to points unknown. (Just saw a great article about Croatia, so maybe one day I'll get to climb there)

I have no misconception about getting rich from either my photogrpahy, nor my climbing gym. My goal is more about having time to climb all the places that catch my interest. For that, I need abit of revenue. If I can earn some money without hurting the enviroment or people, I don't mind giving it a try. If I can earn money doing something I love, like guiding climbing trips around South East Asia, running a climbing gym that introduces people to this great sport, or taking photos of my adventure, I'm game.

Royalty Free License

I read somewhere, "if you love what you do, you'll never work a day in your life." While I love my teaching job, I decided I wanted more time to climb, travel, and take photos, so here is to doing what I love and never working a day in my life ever again.

Wantt o see more of my images from my travels around Asia, check out my Stock Photos HERE.

Indonesia Rock Climbing Guidebook

2011-10-02T14:22:00.000+08:00

Spent the morning working on the Rock Climber's Guide to Indonesia I am putting together. The information is vague and hard to find and I'm thinking that I'll need to limit my guide to routes I have personally climbed. I was hoping to avoid that to give a more comprehensive guide, but Indonesian climbers don't document or keep track of climbing history very well.

I'm posting this in hopes that someone will stumble on the post and share some information I misses. So far, the best source of Climbing Information for Indonesia as been the American Alpine Club library.

If you have some climbing info, route info, or images to share, let me know.

Menghabiskan pagi hari dengan mengerjakan Rock Climber's Guide to Indonesia. Informasinya tidak banyak dan sulit ditemukan dan saya berpikir bahwa saya perlu memberikan informasi yang lebih mengenai jalur-halur yang bukan saya sendiri panjat, tetapi pemanjat Indonesia tidak mendokumentasikan atau tidak menyimpan data climbing dengan baik.

Saya memposting ini berharap bahwa seserang akan memposting dan berbagi informasi yang saya lewatkan. Sejauh ini sumber terpercaya mengenai informasi Climbing di Indonesia adalah di perpustakaan American Alpine Club.

Jika anda mempunyai info baik mengenai climbing, jalur ataupun foto, tolong beritahu saya.

Keeping Busy

2011-09-30T12:11:00.000+08:00

With the Gym going strong, I've decided to dedicate some of my down time to typing, editing, and creating tops for a couple of guidebooks I've been working on for for the last few years. These were always side projects for me, and they still remain a nice way to engage my brain with somehting not related to my full-time work.

Of the four works in progress, the one I'd like to finsh before the end of 2011 is the first Climber's Guide to Indonesia. This guide will primarily focus on the climbing areas of Java and will be published in English.

This is one of the more difficult guides to research. Here in Indonesia, the current generation of climbers is heavily focused on Indonesia's National Climbing team and just makes do with what is available for outdoor climbing. The previous generation climbed heavily and, like climbers in Europe and America, dedicated their time and life tot he sport they loved. A few even lived in their car while they traveled from one area to another. Unfortunately, very documentation was done on what routes they established, where they climbed, and what they did.

For the last year, I've focused heavily on tracking climbers who developed and established routes, but no-one seems to know who they are. I know that the majority of climbing development was done by foreign climbers either visiting Indonesia or living here for a few years as ex-pats.

One Japanese climber, whose name no-one seems to know, was largely responsible for a establishing a few hundred routes. Who knows, maybe someone reading this post will remember his name and I can track him down in Japan with some of my Japanese climbing friends.

With 30 to 40 emails coming my way a week asking me about climbing routes in various parts of Indoneisa, I have no doubt that this will be a useful climbing resource. One that hopefully will be updated once local and foreign climbers see how useful it is to share climbing information.

The other books are also related to climbing areas in South East Asia. Both should help climbers with hard to find information ralted to climbing in the region. More on those soon.

We Choose to Live life The Way We Do

2011-09-24T12:17:00.000+08:00

Personally, I love my life. Actually, I’ve loved 90% of my life because I choose to be selfish about the way I live it. I live it for me, not for others. That doesn’t mean I chose to be anti social, it just means I don’t let others dictate what my priorities are.

Along the way, things have changed a lot, and they are still changing. Today, I take responsibility for my happiness. Climbing has been the constant in my life, but that was my choice. One reason I climb, is that it serves no other purpose but to enjoy myself. Even now that I own a climbing gym, I still climb for me and no one else. Yes, I teach others, I interact and I demonstrate climbing, but I climb because I want to climb. The days I don’t feel like climbing, I don’t.

I believe that everything in our lives is a choice. Our jobs, our friends, our relationships, and how we spend our time, our all our choices.

I didn’t love every day of my lie, but today I have no regrets about the choices I made along the way. After high school, I spent a year working in the Awahnee hotel. The job was not great, but it provided me an opportunity to climb in my favorite climbing area for a year. Great cracks were available before or after work and my ‘weekends,” Monday and Tuesday, were spent climbing walls. The job was not great, but I chose to work at a job I didn’t like so I could live in a place I loved. I basically kept my head down, did my job to the best of my ability and kept my eye and mind on what was important, the next climb.

While working in Yosemite, I was amazed at how many people lived such miserable lives and chose not to do anything to get out of it. People who were only a few years older had given up. These were people who grew up with much more than I did, maybe they just didn’t know how to make choices to be positive. Maybe they wanted to have a miserable life, maybe they just enjoyed complaining. Me, I just enjoyed climbing, so everything, at that time, didn’t matter.

After Yosemite, I took the money I had in my savings account, and hit the road. I was finally free to climb everyday with not job, all I had to do was find partner, locate free camping, and find cheap food. Noodle, rice pudding, and granite jam cracks nourished me for about a year. I was living the life I had chosen. Along the way, I did what several of the dirt-bag climbers I met on the road did, I gave my body to medical research in Austin Texas. Preferring long run-outs on Glacier Point Aprons, this was a hard choice for me, but for a 15 day study, I could go back on the road for three months, so I choose to take the needle and caught up on my reading. Two weeks of Florescent light, strict regiments of needles, and a careful crafted diet and I was back in the warm sun heading for Sierra Nevadas Mountains.

Even living the life, I met people who were unhappy with the life they were living. They spoke of following the sun, looking for the perfect routes, and bragged about climbing 300 days a year, but many were still unhappy. They were living the dream, but I felt like the dream wasn’t their, it was a representation of what the dream wasn’t suppose to be. At about a year on the road, I too felt like the life was wearing thin, I needed something more.

With little to go on and even less money to resettle into the real world, I made a choice. I committed myself to a life that was the opposite of the freedom I had experienced, I joined the military. While I have no regrets about joining, I also have no regrets about getting out. The military applied a bit of discipline to my life and it opened my eyes to what the world can be. It also introduced me to more people who hated their life and were just going through life, not living their life. Most complained and felt they were victims. They blamed their recruiters, drill sergeant, and commander for everything that was going on in their life; they didn’t want to accept responsibility for the choices they had made.

Over the years, after my military service I took job that were less than perfect because they offered either a great schedule or were at the perfect location. From hanging build boards three days a week to guiding rock climbing trips, I’ve always found a way to do what I wanted on the side. The key for me has been to keep things simple:

I live my life with the choices I make, so I choose to be careful how I live. When something isn’t what I want it to be, I chose to change it. I accept responsibility for my actions and the choices I make. Most importantly, I choose not to blame others for things I chose to do and don’t enjoy. I accept that eh outcomes are based on my choices.

Here are things I keep in mind.

I choose my friends. I have a few friends and many acquaintances, my friends and I are very supportive of each other, but we’re also honest and don’t hesitate to share our opinions. We’re able to have discussion on issues we don’t see eye-to-eye one without disrespecting each other. I like my friends to be able to have a conversation, aren’t afraid of critiquing me, or are willing to tell me their honest opinions regardless of my beliefs. Some of my friends aren’t even climbers.

I have a couple of passions instead of along list of hobbies. I consider myself very lucky; I found something I love doing early on in my life. Climbing has been the only constant. I often think people have a ton of hobbies because they have not found something they love or are passionate about. On the same note, one common trait among my entire friend is that they are passionate about one or two things. Some of the things they enjoy, I can’t relate too, but when they speak about, I get excited. That’s enough for me and makes for a nice conversation about the finer points of subjects I know nothing about.

When people tell me they wish they could do something, I always answer with go ahead. They normally have a dozen reasons why they can’t or won’t. I believe we find a way to do the things we really want to do. We prioritize our lives according to what we are most interested in. Me, I make time for climbing. Everything I do is designed to maximize time spent climbing.

I’ve learned to say “no.” Saying “no” has always been difficult for me, but I’ve slowly adjusted. This has made my schedule much more open and allows me to commit fully when I say yes. I now only say yes to things I am genuinely interested in doing or helping with. This allows me to be 100% committed to the process and task. Saying “no” has also opened a lot of time on my calendar and schedule.

I married a woman who is kind, wonderful and loving. She also has the same interest as me, and couple interest I don’t understand. We enjoy spending time together and spend more time together than apart. This isn’t true of many of the married couples I meet. Many chose to do things that there spouses or partner are not interested in. While having some separate interest is great, couples need to have common interest too.

The choices I’ve made have not created a perfect life, but I love my life. I chose my friends, my career, where I live, and whom I married. I’ve scheduled my life around the things I love. When I meet people who haven’t, I ask myself why not?

Gri Gri 2 Now in Surabaya Indonesia

2011-09-19T18:55:00.001+08:00

Class 5 Recreational Climbing Center, Indonesia's first first service indoor climbing gym is an authorized reseller of Petzl gear. We now have Gri Gri 1 and Gri Gri 2 in stock and ready to sell. Stop by and check out what else we have to offer. class5climbing at yahoo dot com

Class 5 Recreational Climbing Center adalah penjual resmi dari Petzl.Kami Sekarang kami mempunyai Gri Gri 1 dan Gri Gri 2, siap untuk dijual. Datanglah ke tempat kami dan lihat apa saja yang kami tawarkan.

The Access Fund Press release

2011-07-30T11:47:00.001+08:00

Press Release from Access Fund:

The Access Fund just announced our partnership with Jeep and our new Conservation Team. We're looking for two people to hit the road and help maintain climbing areas by assessing climbing area conservation needs, working with Local Climbing Organizations, land managers and climbers to address those needs, and providing training on planning and stewardship best practices to keep those areas healthy.

For more information or to apply visit www.accessfund.org/employment

This is going to be a sweet gig for the right team. Good luck!

-Access Fund

Route Setting Week I

2011-07-22T14:06:00.002+08:00

Well, my staff and I have been setting some routes at Class 5 Recreational Climbing Center. Rock Climbing in Surabaya, Indonesia just got a little bit easier to access.

Roca- Ropes and Harnesses in Indonesia

2011-06-12T13:55:00.001+08:00

Build it and they will come, that is what I believe about Class 5 Recreational Climbing Center, Indonesia's first full service indoor climbing center.

After a bit of researched, I realized I not only needed to build the place, but I also needed to find reliable and quality climbing gear companies that were willing to risk doing business in Indonesia with me. I contacted several rope companies, but after reviewing and dealing with each one, I settled on Roca Ropes from Spain.

Why Roca, simple, I believe in their product and I love climbing on their ropes. When I tie into a Roca rope or put on a Roca harness, I am reassured by a quality Spanish company that has been doing business for over 100 years.

Last week, while climbing with some out of town climbers, they asked me what rope I was climbing on. Like so many climbers, they wanted to know the details. I posted them below. While all the tech stuff is great, I have to admit, I selected my Roca because it's superior handling.

So, my current rope:

Roca Finger 10.2mm 60 meters long.

While this Rope is designed for sport climbing routes, I find it to be a great rope on all my climbing trips. I also own a smaller 9.9mm diameter from ROca, but the Finger is my general purpose line. The Finger combines lightness, durability and works fine in all semi automatic belay devices. Excellent for sport routes, crack climbing and big walls.

* For the Techies out there

European conformity EN 892 UIAA

diameter 10.2 mm
Numbers of falls 7
Impact force 880 daN
elongation 33%
weight per metre 70 g
slippage 5%

TruBlue Auto Belay Device Come to Indonesia

2011-06-08T11:38:00.001+08:00

As stated before, my life is heading in a new direction. If four years ago, when I moved to Indoneisa, you would have told me I would be here on along term basis, I would have laughed at you. I planned two to three years, then a move to another location with more spectacualor climbing locations. Instead, I came to teach Math, I met and married my wonderful wife Enrita, and I'm now retiring from the classroom to run a full-time full service climbing business.

To add to life's many changes, I'm now the Distributor of TruBlue Auto Belay device.

TruBlue Auto Belay devices are a great way for gyms and school walls to maximize users time on the wall while increasing safety.

While a auto belay device does mean that single climbers can now play on the wall safely, the main advantage I see on a personal climbing level is the ability to run laps and increase my endurance without boring my partner to death on the belay end of the rope.

As some of you may remember, I have a goal of 40 pitches in a single day to celebrate my 40th birthday. With a new gym to train in, a new schedule that allows me to get outdoors and climb frequently, and a auto belay device to train with, I can't imagine not reaching my personal goal.

Life Changes- Indonesia's First Full Service Climbing Gym

2011-06-01T10:07:00.001+08:00

I haven’t had much opportunity to write for fun lately, but I’ve now freed up a bit of time. When I signed the contract to teach at Surabaya International School four years ago, I never imagined how much my life would change.

In four years, I’ve been very fortunate to find a variety of great cliff in East Java. Surowiti being the closest has developed into a nice sport climbing destination. Other cliffs in East Java offer plenty of first ascent potential too. Kidiri’s Mt Kelut has Basalt cracks up to 800 feet, most unclimbed. Spikul, located above the beautiful Prigi Beach has two existing routes up to 16 pitches long with room for another 50.

A few years ago, when I arrived in Surabaya, I was telling my wife, then girlfriend, that Surabaya could use a full-service climbing gym. Over the last few years, I toyed with the idea here and there, but last fall, a friend of mine decided he wanted to invest in my idea, so the gym is now becoming a reality. While I still manage to get some real climbing done almost every weekend, and I’ve been fortunate enough to squeeze in a couple of climbing trip here and there, I’ve spent much on my free time getting this new gym going.

In this case, I had the vision, my wife supported my idea, and my friend, who is not a climber, was looking for an investment. After a few conversations, some research, and lots of excellent meal to discuss how to proceed, we committed ourselves to the project. I informed my school that I would not be returning next school year, and for the last seven months, have been working on the gym whenever I have time. Now, the building is nearing completion, the climbing wall company is starting to build the frame, and I’ve somehow become the distributor of several climbing companies for Indonesia. Looks like the gym will open early July, my teaching job end June 10^th.

With a combination of my blog, and rockclimbing.com the word is out that the climbing in Indonesia is quite good and easy to access. Over the last couple months, I hosted a few climbers in my guestroom that came from overseas to check out the wonderful climbing near Surabaya. The response to the routes and climbing has been quite positive. Because of time constants, I have not been able to show them best cliff East Java has to offer, but I’ll share them with you here over the next couple of post.

The nearest area to Surabaya, the capital of East Java, is Surowiti. Home to over sixty routes, a visiting climber can clip bolts or place gear. Most routes are 25 to 30 meters long and offer a full range of grades. Three weeks ago, I took a dozen middle school students to climb and play on the areas great easy routes. School Wall, offers routes from 5.6 to 5.10, most below vertical or vertical.

Near “School Wall” is Surowiti’s newest wall. Named Dragon Wall because the wall was first cleaned and climb on Chinese New Year, the wall currently only has two routes, but because of its convenient location near the School Wall, a climber can play all day without moving too far. Between School Wall and Dragon Wall, climbers can climb every grade from 5.6 to 5.11+ with just a dozen Quick-draws and a rope.

Last weekend, we had a couple of experienced climbers staying with us. My wife and I opted to show our Canadian and Swiss guests “Top Ten” wall, by far the most popular wall here. Top Ten wall has about 20 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13 with more coming soon. A couple of weeks ago, I started cleaning what will be some excellent second pitches on vertical to slightly overhanging limestone. If you prefer to place gear, bring the rack to climb two of this formation’s excellent cracks.

Hester Buttress offers another dozen excellent 30 meter long sport routes.(more coming soon) Routes on this wall are either overhanging, or offer what many visiting climbers have called, “vertical slab routes.” Twinkle Toes is a nice moderate route to warm up on before tackling the longer routes that require excellent foot work to succeed.

If you can handle the humidity, Indonesia offers year-round climbing. In the case of Surowity, the cliff heads into the shade around 11:00 and the nearby Java Sea provides a pleasant breeze to keep climbers comfortable on the warmest of days. If you climb here, keep in mind, the cliff is home to several owls, a few very large iguana, and a variety of small tropical birds.

Surowiti is half way between Grisick and Tuban on the map near Surabaya. Public transportation to the area is difficult, so most people get there by car or motor bike. Unlike climbing in Thailand, the cliff is never crowded; climbing is just being discovered in east Java. With the new gym opening in July, it should be easy to find partners.

The approach to most walls is 10 to 20 minutes from the car on very well used trails. The local village likes climbers, but be respectful of where they live. To help the local economy, my partners and I normally buy our water from the vendor in the parking area. Her prices are very reasonable, and the owner loves climbers. A couple of villagers work for climbers part-time keeping the trails and base the cliff clear.

Indonesia Rock Climbing Images,

2011-05-27T11:07:00.004+08:00

Rockclimbing.com and I have a strange relationship. I find about 99% of the site to be a waste of time, the other 1% to be fun and useful. To be honest, I am not sure why I bother, but every now and then, something on the site happens, and I get new energy for putting up with the BS.

Over the years, the positive side of the website has helped me source information, most of it in the form of private messages from people who register but choose to just lurk. These hidden users on the site can be quite useful with sharing reliable and useful information. About 99% of my post reminds me why they are smart to lurk.

I've met several climbers via this site. Most are climbers passing through Asia on some business or vacation trip. They contact me looking for info. IN most cases, I offer use of my guestroom, some actually show up on my doorstep and stay/climb for awhile.

Over the last couple months, I've had afew guest crash in my wife and I guestroom. Anyways, here are a few pictures fromlast weekend on the cliff. Nick was passing through Indonesia, stayed a few days and climb a couple of them.


My wonderful wife Ernita

My wonderful wife Ernita

Nick, met on climbingclimbing.com

Peggy Climbing partner and Friend

Surabaya, Indonesia Climbing Gym Job Opening

2011-05-17T13:25:00.001+08:00

Class 5 Recreational Climbing Center is looking for safety-conscious and fun climbers to join our team.

Class 5 Recreational Climbing Center is Indonesia’s first full service, indoor climbing facility. Our facility will offer squared meters of indoor climbing, a pro-shop that will stock a selection of climbing gear, and a a great environment to climb with friends and strangers alike.

I’ll be accepting resume or CV for both Part-Time or Full-time employment. If you’re a rock climber and you want to work in Indonesia’s first full service climbing gym let me know.

Job description:

1) Help to ensure the safety of all climbers; providing a fun and safe climbing environment is our first concern.

2) Teach new climbers the figure eight follow through, proper belaying technique, verbal commands (on belay, belay on, climbing, climb on)

3) Reception procedures with an emphasis on customer service.

4) Group and event responsibilities included

What we’re looking for:

Excellent people skills.

Some English useful

An interest in rock climbing

If interested or for more information, contact me: class5climbing at yahoo dot com

Rock climbing disciplines and styles of climbing.

2011-05-09T11:30:00.003+08:00

When talking about the sport we love, climbers generally divide the sport into four distinct disciplines: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, and Aid Climbing. Bouldering and sport climbing are by far the most popular styles todays.

Bouldering, by far the most social, generally focuses on short and ropeless routes. Most of the time, these routes are on boulders. Bouldering today is very popular as a sport on its own. Boulder problems can range from two or three moves, to very tall boulders where a fall near the top would not be recommended.

Sport Climbing, also very popular today, is the most common form of established climbing in the world today. Sport climbing routes are pre-equipped with permanent fixed anchors called bolts.

Sport climbing routes are design to minimize the risk and maximize the physical reward of climbing and movement. Because sport climbs are designed to maximize safety, the climber can focus on pushing their own personal and physical limits with minimum thought about protecting themselves. Sport climbers often reverse routes to push their limits and improve, but some climbers who sport climb still prefer to climb well within their physical limits and stay on routes that don’t require them to practice each move.

Traditional Climbing, most commonly referred to as trad climbing, generally requires that the climber place all the needed protection on the ascent, while the partner removes it. The protection is temporary and removable. In some cases, trad routes can be equipped with bolts because they is no other way of protecting the route. When a bolted route becomes a sport route is a bit of a grey area in today’s climbing world.

Because trad climbing generally requires that the climber place and remove the protection on every ascent, this style of climbing as a few more technical skills that climbers must learn. Climbers also have to invest more money in the equipment needed. Like sport climbing, trad climber still use a rope only for protection.

Aid Climbing, means the climber is using specialize rock climbing gear to scale the cliff with a mechanical advantage. Aid Climbing techniques are used when the features on the cliff are too small or featureless to use just hands and feet to make upward progress.

Bouldering, Sport Climbing, and Traditional climbing all fall into a category of climbing referred to as free climbing. Free climbing doesn’t mean that climbers scale the cliffs un-roped, but that the climbers scale the cliff using their hands and feet to hold the natural features on the cliff to make upward progress. If the climber uses the equipment to help their body move higher up the cliff, the climber is said to be “Aid Climbing.”

Climbing is fun, and can be as challenging as the individual climbers want it to be. When free-climbing, the basic goal is to reach the top of the route without hanging or placing your weight on the gear or rope. If the climbers hang during the ascent, the climb is not considered a clean ascent in terms of free climbing. Climbers who get a clean ascent on the first attempt have on-sighted the route. If a climber falls, and needs to repeat the route two or more times to get a clean ascent, the climber has red-pointed the route.

Climbing gyms, and artificial climbing walls, have evolved and helped make climbing more accessible to people. Today, climbing walls can be found in community center, schools, and recreation centers. Climbing gyms focus on free climbing and bouldering.

2011-05-05T11:00:00.001+08:00

Just read this Article and it made me think, what's next?

" To set a world record, all University of Colorado doctorate student Will Levandowski has to do is climb the same 10-foot tall boulder on Flagstaff Mountain about 2,500 times in 24 hours. He starts today at 5 p.m. And though he hasn't started climbing, he's already met one goal in this endeavor -- to raise money for Operation Smile, a nonprofit that provides cleft lip and palate surgery to children for free."

While I admire his goal, and the idea of raising funds for Operation Smiles, I have to wonder if climbing the same 10 ft over and over is really impressive enough to be a Guinness world record.

Will, I wish you good luck with both the record and the fund raising.

Climbers Spray versus convesation

2011-04-20T10:50:00.001+08:00

I spent the weekend at our school's swim meet. We had several school come and about 180 swimmers from 5 to 18 competing. At the end of the first day, one of the swimmer was stacking pad under the climbing wall and I walked over to say something about he wall being closed.

I took my time, and by the time I reached the wall, he had already done a couple of moves. It was obvious he had done some climbing before, so I asked if he was climber when I reached the base of the wall. Sure enough, he was. I explained the wall wasn't open for safety reason and he understood.

We stood around and spoke for awhile. He was the student manager of his school's wall and spent quite a bit of time climbing outdoors. This being Indonesia, climbing outdoors require a certain amount of effort not associated with climbing outdoors in America. First, finding the crags, then the routes, then the courage to proceed. Everything here is word of mouth and no guidebooks exist.

Somewhere along the conversation he asked me the question I never quite know how to answer, "what grade do you climb." For one, I learned to climb in a environment where the question wasn't that frequent. When it was asked and you did give a grade, you needed to be able to prove it, because the locals would put you on the local test-piece for the grade. I dodged the question as long as I could, but he kept asking the same thing in various ways.

What grade do I climb, well I'm not sure to be honest. My climbing level varies according to my fitness, last time on the cliff, the style, and my attitude that day. In general, I just avoid mentioning my level and get on what ever route catches my eye. Some are harder than others, some are extremely easy.

The whole situation made me think about the difference between talking about climbing and spraying about climbing. How are the two different?

Let's say that I spend Sunday climbing. On Monday, while speaking a climbing friend, we talk about the weekend and the climbing we did. During the conversation, we talk about the routes we climb and how we did on those routes. Some climbers would consider mentioning a successful send of your project bragging, while others would just consider it part of the conversation.

How was your weekend?

I had a great time, climbed a few routes and sent my Project "Love. Lace and Chains."

Have the same conversation with two climbers and one will see it as spraying about how hard you climb, the other will see it as having a chat about climbing.

So, when does talking about your weekend and sharing your accomplishments with friends become spray?

Why is it that a professional climber sharing his accomplishment seems acceptable, but a recreational climber doing the same gets criticized for spraying?

Alamy

2011-04-18T15:38:00.001+08:00

About six months ago, my wife and I started working on a new project. In June, we make a permanent change in career. More on that coming soon. Because of all the organization, planning, and construction involved with our new direction in life, photography has taken a temporary back seat. With that said, I've not completely stopped shooting or marketing my images.

One advantage of having a stock library represent you work is that they continue to push your images even when you are concentrating on other aspects. So, last night, while I was sleeping, Alamy licensed yet one more of my images. The Image licensed, like so many others, was surprising.

I shot this image while my wife was running some errands in a shopping mall. I was tired of being indoor and headed outside to roam the neighborhood and see what was work photographing. The worker above was repairing a fractured sidewalk.

Several times I've heard people comment about how lucky I was to have my camera with me when I show them a photo. I don't think of it as luck, I jsut keep my camera with me at all times. While I may not shoot photos everyday, I always have the camera within easy reach if the situation is worth shooting.

Like climbing long routes in Yosemite, I think it's better to have the gear and not need it, than to leave the gear behind and find out you need it.

You see more of my images available for licensing here.

Climbers and their Forrums

2011-03-17T11:43:00.003+08:00

Let's face it, most climbers today actually work. Yes, some live out of their car, follow the sun, and climb perfect rock year-round, but most don't. Chances are, if you're putting in 40 hours a week, you belong to at least one climbing forum site. Whether you lurk, laugh, or laud these sites, the ones you frequent can tell others a lot about who you are.

Mountainproject.com is a site that likes to think of itself as full of great information, and it is. Most of the information is fairly accurate and regular users are useful with beta. If you frequent this site, chances are you're checking out the great climbing area just about every weekend, or you're spending your work day daydreaming about climbing. Slogan "Reading Guidebooks is Better than Climbing"

Supertopo.com makes Yosemite, the Sierras, and the rest of California look like the only place worth visiting. Like the beach boys who worshiped surfing, the users here worship everything California or related to California. Slogan "Free climbing is what you do when you drop your aiders."

Neice.com while summer topo is out worshiping the California sun and cliffs, these dancing naked in the moonlight to bring out winter. Slogan "Rock Climbing is what you do when the ice melts."

8a.nu the holy grail of look at me and how hard I climb. Member here are focused on a scorecard system that identifies stats and how hard they climb. This is the ideal site for anyone looking to noticed for climbing hard. Slogan "Because the world wants to know how hard I climb."

Rockclimbing.com the site dedicated to insulting other climbers so you can feel better about yourself. Most people on this site have too much time on their hands and feel the need to belittle others. Post ridiculous post lead to great and lengthy debates about absolutes in climbing. Everyone is a self-professed expert and will let you know. Slogan "Crush the noob for asking."

Cheers

Surabaya, Indonesia, a New Rock Climbing Area Photos

2011-02-02T08:51:00.002+08:00

Looks like rock under there.

Only one way to know

I think you're correct

Think it's solid enough to climb?

Are crag dogs OK?

Yeah, that solid enough, a bit wet but workable.

Surabaya, Indonesia, a New Rock Climbing Area

2011-01-28T10:26:00.001+08:00

Second day of cleaning and prepping the Indonesia's new crag. Located about one hour outside Surabaya, this crag should become a fun and easy to access climbing destination for climbers in the East Java. By the end of summer, this will be one of three completely developed sport climbing areas.

Generally, speaking, the sandstone is excellent. The lower band of rock is to soft for bolts, but strong enough to climb. I plan on putting high first bolts and will recommend people bring a clip stick to reach the first bolt safely.


Florian cleaning the right upper face.

Florian, a German climber staying with us while traveling in Indonesia worked hard on cleaning this section of the cliff.

Starting up on day two.

This route looks short, but it's about 18 meters long. The nice finger crack already ahd a few pitons and four very old bolts.

Out of respect to those who came ahead of use, I replaced the old bolts with new Stainless Anchors and hangers. I removed the old pitons.

I plan on climbing this route with just my gear, but local climbers can enjoy climbing this line with just a set a quick-draws if they want.

Placing bolts on lead is never fun, but I decided to use do it anyways. To be honest, because of the rain, a storm actually, I ended up aiding the route anyways.

I'm not sure, but I'm guessing the route will go around 5.10. Based on the piton and bolt placement, I think the route was aided about 20 years ago. While it could have been freed, I don't think it was.

While we did do the First Ascent, we decided to name the route "Lost and Found" unless we hear from the first ascent party. Would be great to know who they are, that's for sure.

The lower band here is strong enough for climbing, but the rock won't hold bolts. I may try to use a 12mm by 15cm sleve anchor on my next rip to see how it does, but I think a bolt here will require a Glue-in bolt.

For now, the plan is to have the first bolt above the soft rock on other routes. People climbing here can stick clip and climb safely through the bad rock.

Bolting routes in the tropics is always an adventure. These are the tools I use to establish new routes.

I consider myself lucky to have learned to climb in a trad area. This means I can place gear, and trust my gear too.

Set of cams, two sets of nuts, Quick-draws and afew slings, cordelette, drill, saw, machete, hammer,a nd small crowbar. These are the basic tools needed to develop new routes in Indonesia.

Florian, Ruchid, and me being showing off our fine physic and tans

Of course, all these tool would be useless without some great partner willing to share the work.

Not that everyone in this photo is soaked. We spent about two hours in the pouring rain cleaning, clearing, and bolting. These partners were good natured and once wet, we decided we couldn't get any more wet and stayed.
Even with the rain, we got a lot accpomplished.


My Loving Wife

As a climber, I consider myself very lucky to have a very understanding wife who also climbs.

Her support, patience, and tolerance is always great.

Photos of New Cliff

2011-01-18T15:07:00.002+08:00

I've tried to convince some of my climbing partners of what cliffs look like before I start developing routes in the Tropical Jungles. With this crag, I plan on putting images up as the cleaning and route development happens.

In this case, I found this cliff while hiking with a friend near home. The wall is about 22 meters high and will have roughly 30 to 40 routes when we're done.

Our cliff before we started cleaning. If you look closely, you can see the roof in the top right section of the Photo.

A much closer view to show how thick the jungle vines are on the formation.

Just a couple hours of cutting, swinging a machete, and clearing brush, and the cliff become a bit more exposed.

A more distant view of the same cliff, notice the roof still in the right section of the images.

Lowe Pro FastPack 350- A great Bag

2011-01-14T14:59:00.001+08:00

I consider myself pretty lucky to live, work, and climb in Asia, but carrying my camera gear, especially on a plane, can get pretty challenging. I’ve never liked the idea of checking my camera gear with baggage, so over the years, I’ve used a variety of methods to get everything in the carry on overhead bind. Lately, I’ve found that my patience has dwindled, and my comfort has become more important, so I only carry one carry on bag when I travel.

Well, I finally found a pack I really like, and once again, it’s from Lowe Pro. While I doubt they ever will be a one size fits all perfect bag for me, I have to admit, Lowe Pro gets it right more than they it wrong. In this case, the Fastpack 350. I’ve owned a few different product from their line and have never been disappointed.

Courtesy Lowepro

For my end of year climbing trip to Thailand, I had the opportunity to actually put the Fastpack 350 through the ringer and was impressed. This three compartment bag made traveling a breeze.

Courtesy of LowePro

The Camera Compartment, located on the bottom end of the bag is a entry compartment that makes reaching and getting your camera a breeze, even when you’re wearing the bag. With the Velcro dividers many options, the hardest part of packing the bag was determining which configuration I was going to use. My Nikon was mounted with my 70-200 F2.8 lens, which was easy to fit in the compartment. I used the remaining space of the compartment to camera my wide angle lens, a mid telephoto, and fixed 50mm, a 2X converter, and my Nikon Sb-800. The padded bottom made me feel comfortable when I moved my bag around or place it on the ground.

With a side access pocket, I was able to easily access the camera and mounted lens without removing the bag from my shoulder, but in order to access any of my lenses or flash, I had to a least place the bag on one shoulder to open the security flap that prevents anyone from opening the zipper to the man compartment while you roam about. Personally, I felt the extra safety of the security flap was worth the inconvenience of taking the bag off.

The main compartment of the bag, found on top, was roomy. A few easy to use pouches, a couple mess pockets, and a removable pouch with Velcro gave me plenty of room to carry other supplies. Laptop cable, mobile phone, external drive, and perhaps the most important, a good book to read while flying or on layovers.

The third compartment is the side loading laptop sleeve, which fits a MacBook pro with no problem and offer plenty of padding when another passenger decides to rearrange the overhead bend to fit his oversize carry-on. The laptop compartment is against your back when you carry the bag. In the past, I never appreciated bags with this configuration because they didn’t hold there shape when the laptop was taken out and left in the car or the hotel. Not so with the Fastpack 350. Even without a laptop for support, I found the back stiff enough to made use of the bags well-built hip belt.

Overall, this is a great bag for traveling with camera and laptop. It carries nicely on your back, fits all your gear with loads of potential configurations, and has plenty of of space for extras.

Can't Please Everyone

2011-01-11T12:04:00.001+08:00

I recently read this quote by David Hobby.

"Don't try to please everyone. The more worried you are about pleasing everyone else, the less likely you are to ever please yourself. Nor are you ever likely to produce anything truly interesting or develop any kind of personal style worth having."

What a great quote to consider as both a climber and a photographer.

Little Crimpers, A climber's Guide to Clarksville

2011-01-09T20:06:00.002+08:00

Well, I guess you can say some of us never learn. After ten years of not climbing in Tennessee, I was still getting emails for information about climbing at King's Bluff. A few months ago, a climber contacted me to asked if I had a newer copy of the climbing guide she had. Turns out she had found a copy of my 1998 Little Crimpers, A Climber's Guide to Clarksville.

I explained that I no longer lived in the area and that I didn't have an updated version. After a few more email exchanges, she convinced me to contact a few climbers and put together a new guide.

At the time I was working on "Aga, A Climber's Guide to Okinawa." but I promised to revise Little Crimpers ASAP.

"Little Crimpers, A Climber's Guide to Clarksville Tennessee," is here.

Over 150 route, a revised hitory of the Bluff, and several nearby climbing locations to consider visiting if you're a climber living in Clarksville Tennessee.

If by chance you also need a climbing guide to Okinawa, Japan, don't miss "Aga, A Climber's Guide to Okinawa."

Climbers, the burden of proof.

2010-12-26T15:21:00.003+08:00

Wild country and Scarpa recently both dropped Rich Simpson from their sponsored athlete program.

RS, an accomplished climber, runner, and boxer whose claims seem unrealistic in all three sports, was ask for proof of his climbing accomplishments by both sponsors. Seems he declined to give it.

In this case, all his sponsored asked for was the name of his belayers so they could back up the story. They would even settle for a witness to the climb. Nothing was provided.

Climbers claiming to have accomplished something isn't new, most local crags have at least one climber who exaggerate their accomplishments. In most cases, it harms no-one and most of us know better so we ignore it.

But, what's the best response for doubt when the climber is a professional and their livelihood depends on what hey are doing on the rock? In this case, we're not talking about a local climber who claims to have done a hard route at another area, we're talking about a very stronger climber who could have pulled these routes. If he did, we still need to wonder why he wouldn't want to reveal his belayers to the very people who pay him to climb full-time.

In other sports, like running or boxing, the evidence is obvious and easy to find. His claim of a sub 2:20 marathon should be easy to track, races have record and chips that keep track of runner times. Boxing matches have large audiences. Climbing achievements on the other hand require a certain amount of personal trust.

I bring up running because this is where RS' credibility came into play. His claim of having run a sub-four-minute miles while pace setting could be validated by any of the official at the event.

In all honesty, I don't follow sponsored climbers press release to often. I prefer to read about new and exciting climbing destination I'd like to visit. What bugs me about a sponsored climber's lack of integrity is that it puts more and more doubt in everyday climber's mind about the accomplishments they read about.

Rock Climbing Phi Phi Island, Southern Thailand

2010-12-25T12:51:00.002+08:00

Well, we've been playing and climbing on Phi Phi for about a week now. The climbing here is excellent, but very limited. So far, we've managed to climb just about every routes.

To kill a bit of time, Ernita and I spent half a day doing a couple of boat dives. It was her first time breathing underwater, and it' had been more than 20 years since I played with tanks too. To be honest, I don't miss it much.

My initial view of Phi Phi. The climbing is good. Most routes are 5.8 to 5.10+ with good quare holds that also make great footholds. If you're serious about climbing, come here for a day or two max, stick with Railey or Tonsai to maximize you climbing experience.

I love climbing in Southern Thailand. The routes are great, the rock is amazing, prices are fairly cheap. Phi Phi deserves a day trip, but unless you're into the party seen, alcohol and beer, or prostitutes, make it a day trip. Chance are you'll climb every routes here and then return to Tonsai for a better quantity of lines.

Hiking Volcanoes in Indonesia

2010-12-08T12:17:00.001+08:00

For those looking to hike or climb one or more of Indonesia's many volcanoes, Gunung Bagging is a web resource not to be missed.

This non-profit website has peak information on over 200 mountain around Indonesia. They also offer a couple of suggestions for Borneo and Malaysia. The site is written in English and is free to use.

Peak are placed in their geographic location and each one has it's own page dedicated. Information on where to stay, how to find the trail, and how long the hikes take is all present on the site. Many of the peaks also have photos attached.

If you're planning on hiking an Indonesian volcano, or want to share information on a hike you've done, don't miss this site.

Climbing Magazine Blog update

2010-11-23T08:18:00.002+08:00

Keeping myself fairly busy here in Indonesia with several new climbing projects. I plan on catching everyone up shortly. For now, I have anew post on Climbing Magazine's website.

Climbing in Cebu, Philippines.

Cheers

Climbing Guidebooks, Why do I do it to myself.

2010-11-18T13:36:00.002+08:00

Ten years ago, I promised myself that I would not torture myself by writing another climbing guidebook. Almost two years ago, I gave in to the pleas of the Okinawa climbers and finally started writing a climbing guide to Japan’s Southernmost island. Now, East Java climbers, and foreigner traveling to Indonesian, are asking me to put a guide together to this island country. So I’m back on the keyboard and working my way through the next guide, a climber’s guide to Indonesia.

While all guides require an immense amount of time and research, this newest project is going to be the most daunting yet. With the vast amount of research, the criticism I’ll receive from the very climbers who use the new guide, I wonder why I even agreed to write another guide. It sure isn’t for the money.

I wrote my first climbing guide while living in Tennessee. I was living fifteen minutes from King’s Bluff and frequented the area two or three times a week. With just about every route wired, some local nick-named me the walking guidebook. I think every area has at least person who earns this title. While climbing, some out of town climbers asked why the area had no guidebook, and if I could recommend some routes for the weekend. Over the next two days, they convinced me to write “Little Crimpers.”

Like many climbing guide’s, Little Crimpers was a labor of love, and like any first time project took much longer than expected. What I figured would take a month, took nine months and several edits. Within a week of the book reaching the crag, I was being criticized about route description, grades, and recommended gear. Some claimed that my guide threatened the access to the area and that I didn’t care. Of course, those people never mentioned that I bought 20% of the cliff when the area was being developed into an ‘exclusive community,” or the countless hours spent with landowners, lawyer, and the Access Fund about how to keep King’s Bluff open. Like many of King Bluff’s routes, Little Crimpers dished out lots of pain for very little reward.

A few years later, I was living and developing routes in Okinawa Japan. Climbing information was almost non-existent and most of the information traveled word of mouth, mostly in Japanese. Local Japanese climbers had little time to develop new routes and relied on well-established routes put up by various service member who were stationed on the island over the years. Service member didn’t spend long on Okinawa and had limited time too, so not many routes existed. Most were located over the South China Sea on sharp limestone. (Mostly corral actually).

Being blessed with extra time, some friends and I found and developed entirely new cliffs. It wasn’t long before people started asking about a guidebook. By now, the internet was well established and my in-box was stacked with questions on where to climb, what was needed, and the route grades. Not wanting to put a guide together, I opted for a basic website, www.okinawaclimbing.com The site had basic information and direction to most of the island’s crags. Even after leaving Okinawa, I kept receiving inquiries about specific routes and grades, and after much persuasion, decided to put together “Aga, A climber’s Guide to Okinawa.” The guide is available on Amazon and seems to have been a welcomed site among people being transferred to Okinawa. Most people who contacted me wanted a hard-copy of a guidebook versus an electronic file. With the internet in full force, the solution was simple, I published “Aga, A climber’s Guide to Okinawa” with a on demand printer outfit. The guide is currently being convert to electronic format readable on a Kindle, Nook, or Tablet too.

Creating this second guide was much easier. For one, technology advanced and I had learned a bit about putting together the first guide. New software to create topos made drawing the climbs and identifying features much easier. The advances in Digital Camera also make the process easier. The fact that this is the first guide to climbing in Okinawa has made the book easy to market, and shown me that English guidebooks to Japan could make a local climber some extra cash. For those looking to create topos, check out Beta Flash at http://sites.google.com/site/betaflashsite/home this free software makes creating topos easier. You can also insert digital photos and add your topos directly to the images. Best of all, it’s free.

Researching the Okinawa guide was both fun and epic. Like any epic, it helped me develop some new skills that I can use for a more complicated project. While I was not intending to put another guide together, I now receive regular emails asking about climbing in Indonesia. So, I’ve started to compile notes and some rough topos climbing here. Like Okinawa, the information is spread mostly word of mouth, most of it in various Indonesian dialects, but Indonesia is much bigger and much more spread out. Distance in the modern world isn’t a big issues, but many of Indonesia’s climber’s don’t have email, and those that do are hard to track with so little published information on the Indonesian climbing scene. The research alone will take time and effort, but the bigger challenge will be how to layout the information into an easy to follow format for the guide’s reader.

Like finding a project to red-point, writing a climbing guide requires time, patience, and a tough skin. Regardless of what I put in the guide, the complaints will come. Some will say I don’t have enough information listed, other will complain that the guide is to detailed and removes all elements of adventure. Some will call the grades soft, while other will complain that the grades ares tiff. Those who are happy with the guides will rarely say anything. Regardless, as I write this guide, I get a new appreciation for the climbing locals, I have the opportunity to climb some excellent and often overlooked routes, and I me some great climbers who love nothing more than showing me “the best route here.”

Kelut Indonesia Rock Climbing Kidiri

2010-10-16T21:26:00.003+08:00

I don't have much time because I am on the road, but I wanted to upload these un-edited images fresh from my camera of the new wall I found.

Let's just say, this wall, with other in the area, are what will put Rock Climbing Indonesia on the the world map. Rock Climbing here in Indonesia is still in need of some serious foreign climbers to come establish routes, raise standards, and help develop Indonesian climbers, but there is plenty of rock to intise.Roughly 800 feet of basalt with cracks from base to summit waiting to be climbed. Only reason I didn't establish any routes this time is the rain, but I'll head back in a couple of weeks. Seems that Kidiri Tourism want to promote rock climbing in the area. They have asked us to come establish a couple of routes, and to look at the area for some potential hiking trails.
The place is surround by hot springs. These were the biggest pools and longest waterfall flowing directly from the hot springs I've ever seem. As impressive as what i saw in New Zealand.

The approach looks long, but the hike to the base is roughly 40 minutes to an hour with gear. Not to bad really.

Climbing Magazine Blog

2010-10-15T15:21:00.001+08:00

I just added a new post on climbing in Asia at my Climbing Magazine Blog Check it out. The piece is about Climbing in Guangzhou. That site get more traffic, so I've decided to post various destination piece for areas around South East Asia there. I hope it helps traveling climbers a bit more.

I plan on adding a new area every three weeks to the site with a reference link here.
The first post is about climbing on Baiyun San, White Cloud Mountain, in downtown Guangzhou. Guangzhou is the Capital of Guangzhou province in Southern China. While not many tourist travel to Guangzhou, many westerners end up there on business at one time or another.

These postings will be a snippet of my new climbing guidebook project. The first Edition of this guide should be available in the spring of 2011.

Every so often, I am told that I am hard to contact:
lacosteemmanuel at yahoo dot com
If you're planning a trip to South East Asia, or live and the region and have a great crag I can visit, shoot me a note. I'll be happy to share any information I have with you.

The Trad Climbers Prayer

2010-09-30T15:44:00.004+08:00

The Trad Climber's Prayer

Our Father, Jim Bridwell, hallowed be thy name
Run-outs come, thy will be done
On slab, as it is in lie-backs
Give us this day our bomber stopper,
And forgive us our hang-dogging
As we forgive those who clog the route before us.
And lead us not into Levitation,
But deliver us from off-widths.
For thine is the Yosemite, The Needles,
and the Red Rocks for ever and ever.

Now I set me up to climb
I pray the lord the route to find.
If I should fall before the top,
I pray the lord my ass to stop.
-Peter Geiser, 1960

Yes, Okinawa Japan has good rock climbing

2010-09-25T15:10:00.003+08:00

&amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;gt;k&amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;gt;Because I keep receiving messages about climbing on Okinawa, I put together the Okinawa, Japan Rock Climbing Guidebook. It's only available on Amazon, but they do deliver to FPO and APO, so that makes life easy.

This edition is designed for people who are already living or visiting the Island. It doesn't have any hotel information or how to reach Okinawa info. Once on the island, directions to each climbing area are given.

I am currently working on a guide t cover a few of South East Asia's fantastic climbing locations. If you have a South East Asia rock climbing destination you think I should include, contact me at lacosteemmanuel at yahoo.com

Aga- Rock Climbing on Okinawa

2010-09-08T14:16:00.002+08:00

Borneo Berhala Island Sandakan

2010-08-22T15:44:00.002+08:00

Looks like Borneo is more and more likely for September this year. Very Excited.

New Year's Resolution

2010-08-18T12:28:00.003+08:00

Every August, my school year starts anew. This makes life quite confusing for some of my climbing partners, or maybe for me. I spend a lot of time working at school, and when I speak with my peers, we often use the phrase "next year," to mean next school year. Going back and forth between climbers, teacher, and my family make communication interesting for sure. Between my school year, the calendar year, and the fiscal year, I can barely keep track of it all.

Regardless, every august I give myself a few goals for the year. First, on a professional level. This one is easy, I'm going to continue working on my Master in International Education. Within my classroom, I plan on using more videos within my online classroom resources. I would also like to video or photograph more of my everyday school work and interactions with my students.

In August, I also think about my photogrpahy and writing projects. I've been collecting photos of climbing around South East Asia for quite awhile, and I am going to start a basic layout for a photo book of climbing in the region. This is a long term project that I don't plan on finishing until I see a few more locations.I would also like to add another 3000, yes three-thousand, images to my Alamy stock collection this school year.

On the writing front, I've been working on a updated guide to King's Bluff in TN. A few climbers have asked me, so I'm on the project now. Hoping to have that available before Christmas. I've also started to write and create topos for the First Comprehensive rock climbing guide to Indonesia. This task is a bit harder, but I think it will be a good resource for climbers. This year, I will be focusing on areas across Java.

On the climbing front, I plan on developing a few more routes at the local crag, and to start establishing new routes on a new Basalt cliff I found in the Spring. Rock quality appears good, and the cliff might offer some nice trad lines too. this cliff is about 1.5 hours outside of Surabaya.

Ernita and I are also doing a few trips in the Region. During September, we'll be doing our Annual trip to clip bolts above Tonsai and Railey beach in Southern Thailand. December and January, we're seriously considering an extended visit to Phi Phi, and the Spring vacation should see us in Laos or Cambodia.

We would also like to visit Lombok for a fun weekend getaway, a quick exploratory trip to Borneo's Big Bertaha Island. The place seems to be the center of new routes in the area and looks like a spectacular place to play. We also would like to do a long weekend in Singapore to Photograph the zoo and spend a day climbing at the local crag.

Philipines- New Website

2010-08-03T12:04:00.001+08:00

The hardest part of climbing trips in South East Asia is finding information. Outside of the very well publicised crags like Tonsai and Youngshou, very little information is availaible on line.

A friend sent me a link about Climbing in the Philipines I wasn't expecting much, but I was wrong. This is an impressive site about some climbing destinations that most people don't know exist.

ClimbPhilipines.org

Each area also has a Down-loadable PDF of the routes. No tops, but a good start to how many routes they are to climb before you go. I hope the author continues to develop this great resource.

"Aga": A Climber's Guide to Okinawa (Volume 1)

2010-07-30T09:44:00.003+08:00

kWell, it's taken awhile, but I've finally finished the Okinawa, Japan Rock Climbing Guidebook. This edition is designed for people who are already living or visiting the Island. It doesn't have any hotel information or how to reach Okinawa info. Once on the island, directions to each climbing area are given.

This guide covers Areas and a few hundred routes. 90% of Okinawa's Climbing is sport, so a 50 meter rope and 18 quick-draws is all you'll need besides this guide to enjoy yourself.

Enjoy

Studio-Shoot-Royalty Free

2010-07-15T12:06:00.002+08:00

As a climber and photographer living in South East Asia, I have loads of opportunity to travel. My images tend to be travel related, but to make money in the royalty free market, I've discovered that you do need a bit plain images of active people on white or black background. These images seem to be my bread and butter in the micro-stock game. So, every now and then, I shoot in the studio. You can license your photos at site like Shutterstock.


Ernita Stretching before the shoot.

A couple of us got together on Saturday to take some of these simple shots. With my wife as the model, we decided to shoot some athletic type poses first.

Body Combat stance

One of Ernita's favorite workouts at the gym is "Body Combat." The course is very similar to Tae-boe. High dynamic combat moves done to an aerobic sound track.

Action scenes sell better than still scene. For this shot, Ernita most have done the jump-kick two dozen times before we had enough shots to move on. A trooper for sure.

Unlike the gym, facial expressions are important in photography. Eye much be opened and focused. The athlete must also look like they are enjoying themselves.

Stretching is important too.

Like it or not, sensual and sex sell.

With a quick wardrobe change, we were able to put Ernita in a very different type of shot. The serious look, or the casual look. Because these images are going to be used as royalty free images, we had to make sure that the cloths had no noticeable logos or art work.

Same cloths but slightly different angle, a flip of the collar and the image has a very different message.

To make money with Royalty free images, the photo needs to have many different possible uses. What would you use this image for?

Again, Sex sells.

Instead of changing the wardrobe, we changed the background. This made the whole scene have a different Fell.

Close-up of face-shot are popular images in portfolio. Maybe the the heavy Asian influence of my models. I can only guess, but I assume these are for various cosmetics and medications related to skin care. .

Not every shot has to be serious. Sometime, a model being silly between scenes makes the best images from a stock perspective.


Behind the scenes.

KALIMANTAN BANJARMASIN Indonesia

2010-07-07T12:40:00.001+08:00

Ernita and I were asked to explore Kalimantan and see if it could be a good location for a school trip. Without hesitation, we said yes. While there, we decided to shoot some images for our stock portfolio on Alamy.

Banjarmasin, the capital city of South Kalimantan province, lies below sea level. This means that local have developed a unique way of life worth visiting if you find yourself traveling in Indonesia. Locals have always relied on the canals and waterways for their way of life. Banjarmasin, which is below sea level, is sometime called the "the Venice of South East Asia because of the elaborate canal network that crisscrosses the city.

Banjarmasin Canal

Originally, Banjarmasin was completely river-oriented, and much of this is still evident today. Local still use boats as the main source of transportation.

The local boats are across between the Venice water taxis and the long boats used in Southern Thailand. These boats transport everything and everyone.

The Martapura River travels though the city like a busy main road carrying a variety of boats.
Houses on stilts line the waterways which crisscross the capital.

The waterways provide more than just transportation. Local use the river for drinking water, bathing, fishing, cleaning dish/cloths, and as a toilet.

Most houses have a small patio or porch built at water-level to help with daily chores and personal hygiene.

The waterway provide convenient access to Banjarmasin most famous floating markets. Dozen of these markets exist in the province.

Local merchant gather a couple of hours before sunrise to sell their goods. Like all great Asian markets, price is negotiable.


Floating Restaurant

Some boats have been converted to floating restaurant. With a wide variety of soups, fried rice, and other local delecacies, these restaurants keep busy.
Any with a cast iron stomach can pull up to these and enjoy a nice meal. This is one of the few places I have not sampled local food. I wanted to, but I couldn't bring myself to when I witnessed one of the boatman washing dishes near where he had just defecated.

The area is a large supplier of coal to the rest of South East Asia. Once again, the local rely on the waterways for transportation. This just seems to add to the contamination of the water local use for everything.

Along the Martapura River to see diamond polishing. The diamonds are mined at Cempaka Villa-Geto. The mine employees about 600 workers who sift through the muddy water for various stones to make custom jewelry from. On occasions, they find diamonds, and other rare stones. Sand from the area is also trucked to construction sites across Indonesia.

Soto Banjar, a local soup. I didn't ask where they got the water.

Soto Banjar - "Soto" is a type of Indonesian soup. Soto Banjar is a uniquely Banjarese variant of Soto, popular in other places throughout in Indonesia. Don't miss the chance to try the real and genuine taste in its place of origin! Soto in Banjar meant that it is served with lontong, while Soup is served with rice, for the same meal.


Traditional Bamboo Raft

While the city's waterway were filthy and smelly, the rivers of South Kalimantan were quite clean and offered some excellent swimming and water recreation. A nice two hour float on the Amandit rive was a welcomed escape from the heat and humidity. Local here live a simple village life, harvesting what he jungle has to offer.

Banjarmasin has tons to offer the traveler willing to leave the main path. Local are friendly, the photo ops are specular.

Photos of Indonesia, Kilimantan, or other locations in South East Asia, check out my images.

Indonesia Climbing Fund

2010-07-03T14:39:00.001+08:00

Help develop Indonesia's climbing area by donating funds to buy safe and modern hardware. Local climbers are making due, but Indonesia could be a climbing destination for all climbers in the world.

From Bouldering, Sport Climbing, or Big Walls, the potential here is limitless. The only thing preventing more routes from being developed is funds and local climbing gear access.

Summer at Lover's Leap

2010-07-01T10:13:00.001+08:00

I have been busy traveling and climbing, so have not added anything new here. Ernita and I flew from Indonesia to LAX where we spent a couple of day with my mother in Thousand Oaks. As usual, LAX was a zoo and the people who worked there where quick to take out their unhappiness on anyone who was around. I can honestly say, I hate flying within the United States. Customer service is horrible.

From Thousand Oaks, we did the six and a half hour drive to South Lake Tahoe where we rented a cabin five minutes from Lover's Leap. I can seat on the patio and stare at Lover's Leap while enjoying my morning cup of coffee.

I haven't shot many photos of us climbing. Two people makes photography a bit tricky, but I'll post what I have soon. Also plan on posting some images of the cabin we're in. I can honestly recomend this place to anyone looking for a vacation rental near Lake Tahoe.

Amazon's Kindle

2010-06-23T17:00:00.001+08:00

All-New, High-Contrast E-Ink Screen – 50% better contrast than any other e-reader
Read in Bright Sunlight – No glare
New and Improved Fonts – New crisper, darker fonts
New Sleek Design – 21% smaller body while keeping the same 6″ size reading area
15% Lighter – Only 247 grams, weighs less than a paperback
Battery Life of One Month – A single charge lasts up to one month with wireless off
Double the Storage – Up to 3,500 books
Books in 60 seconds – Download books anytime, anywhere
Free 3G Wireless – No monthly payments, no annual contracts
Built-In Wi-Fi – In addition to the 3G wireless, you can connect to Wi-Fi hotspots
20% Faster Page Turns – Seamless reading
Enhanced PDF Reader – With dictionary lookup, notes, and highlights
New WebKit-Based Browser – Free 3G web browsing (experimental)

At 247 grams, with FREE 3G, WiFi the Kindle is an easy buy. About the only issue we have with he device is that we spend most of the year living, climbing, and traveling in South East Asia. The is an issues because Amazon, a site I love, doesn't allow us to download books in Asia. We didn't discover this until we arrive in the Asia, luck for us, we already had afew hundred books on the device.

A web-savy person can find a way around the Asia problem with a bit of help from Google. I'm so impressed with her device, I'll be buying myself one next time I am stateside.

New Images on Alamy

2010-06-23T16:11:00.001+08:00

Wow, it's been busy, busy, busy. I did manage to edit a few animal shots and get them uploaded to Alamy.

A few friends were commenting on my images. We were all shooting together at the zoo and they were impressed with a couple of my shots. I took a quick look at what they had on their screens, and I saw the a few differences.

When I shoot at zoo, I try to keep a few things in mind:

Watch the background. Having a fence, or even worse, a person behind the animal is horrible.

I try to get low, somewhere around eye level with the animal. This helps keep the background clear in many cases.

I don't place the animal in the middle of my images, I try to have him off the side.

No matter what, if the animal's face is in the shot, I focus on the eyes. I also make sure the animals eyes are open.

WOW

2010-06-09T16:47:00.001+08:00

An excellent video with some hard trad climbing. Amzing how well the climber head it together.

Welsh Connections - Pembroke. Award winning short film - Rock Climbing from Bamboo Chicken Productions on Vimeo.

Anual Taman Safari Trip

2010-06-08T12:08:00.001+08:00

Taman Safari is a drive thru zoo located in East Java, Indonesia. Roughly one hour from Surabaya, the park offers a great opportunity to photograph captive animals without a zoo feel or look.

Cow resting in the shade.

Afternoon nap on a hot day for this black bear.

Tropical birds are full of wonderful colors for photographers to play with.

White Tail deer shot with a bark background. natural light, no flash.

Grey Elephant up close and personal. Doesn't make the car feel very safe, that's for sure.

Local cow eating some nice green grass.

Zebra's are my favorite animals to photograph.

Okinawa Rock CLimbing Topos

2010-05-27T16:25:00.001+08:00

Slowly but sure working on Okinawa's Rock Climbing topos. I have to do these from memory. Hoping one of you on site can have a look and compare to what you see on the ground. If so, please let me know where to edit.

I should have the "Aga, A Rock Climber's Guide to Okinawa" completed before summer is over.

Meada Cave

Zampa Hidden Wall

Meada Canton Wall

Meada Overlool Wall

Meada Red Wall

Todoroki or Black Wall

Zampa Point

Meada White Wall

Thanks for the help ahead of time.

Shooting at the zoo

2010-05-05T15:25:00.006+08:00

Spent Sunday a new private zoo named Pasah Oleh Oleh.Originally, we planned on climbing, but many of the roads leading to the cliffs were blocked by local dry various farm products on the asphalt. With climbing out of the picture, we decided to go shoot some photos. Probably good, my elbow isn't fully recovered yet, so climbing might not have been a smart idea.

One advantage of shooting animals at the zoo is that you don't need much patients. You know where the animals are and they are use to people. Some zoos are better than others. I personally avoid zoos where all animals are in cages.

Parakeets are fun and colorful birds to shoot. Like most birds, they don't sit still very long, so keep in eye out for the pattern of their movement. Try to predict what they will do next.

One challenge of shooting in Zoos is the distracting background. Shooting with a fast lens helps to blur the surrounding.

This parakeet was shot inside a Giant bird house. In all directions was a wire mesh. Bushes in the house only grew about 5ft tall, so I waited till the bird was very low to shoot. Uses the bushes as the background helped hide the fence.

Shooting this iguana, it was impossible to find an angle that didn't include the fence in the background. The iguana cage in this case had a high view, and I didn't think it felt natural to shoot straight down on these giant reptiles. Instead, I roamed until i find a couple of iguana high in the trees. By closing in on the iguana, shooting with a fast "F-stop," and including some of the vegetation from the tree, I was able to eliminate some of the distracting background.

Zoos are full of people, make sure you get some of them in your shot. People interacting with each other of with the Animals are always great.

Now, instead of sitting there reading this blog, go out and find something to shoot. The opportunities for photos are everywhere. In this case, we were headed climbing, but needed to change plans. Since I always have my camera with me, we didn't miss a photo op.

Red Tagging

2010-04-12T14:10:00.001+08:00

I started climbing 25 years ago, roughly at the same time that sport climbing entered the American Climbing scene. People were arguing about the ethics of the sport then, and the debate hasn’t ended 25 years later. Sure, sport climbing has been more accepted and many climbers clip bolts and place gear without any doubt that both are fun. I’m one of them.

Shortly after learning to climb, I started hearing people talk about red-tagging. The process of putting a piece of red tape or tying a red ribbon to the first bolt of a newly bolted route so the person who bolted it can do the first ascent. I didn’t give it much thought then, and until I was asked my opinion last week, didn’t spend much time contemplating red tagging. I rather go climbing than talk about ethics. To be honest, i don't think many climber think much about it, the person who asked me seems to spend more time on rockclimbing.com than the cliffs.

The question was straight forward. One of my partners in the U.S. emailed me and asked if I red tagged the routes I bolted until I did the first ascent. He felt that my opinion should matter because I’ve been up routes for the last decade and had firsthand experience, whereas many of his partners didn’t.

The answer is simple, I don’t red tag my new sport climbing routes. I’ve never felt a need.

He was bit surprise and asked if someone had ever "stolen a first ascent" that I bolted. This made me think, do I actually own the route? Can you steal a first ascent just because someone bolted it?

I understand that the cliff was there before me, and the theory that I was the first see the potential of a route, the one who removed the loose rock, clean the lichen, and drilled the holes for the bolts, but I didn’t understand why someone who think I own the right of the first ascent indefinitely. Besides, most climbers are kool and have not jumped on a route before I was finished. Not that I know.

Most climbers I meet are very nice and don’t go out of their way to make trouble. I can’t think of a single time when a climber jumped out of the bushes after I spent several hours cleaning and drilling to claim the first ascent while I was too tired to try. Actually, the opposite seems true, climbers in the area were often surprised when I offered the first ascent after doing the work. I joke and say I'm out of names for routes.

Locally, I have an open project. I bolted the line one afternoon near the end of the climbing day. The route follows some crimps to a nice overhanging corner with small and powerful moves. Loads of side-pulling with high feet make the route very strenuous. It was the end of the day, I bolted the line and didn’t even try it before packing up and heading home. I tried the line two weeks later. The route was much harder than I had anticipated and took me several tries.

I finally red-pointed the route at about 5.13a. The following week, I got back on the line and broke a key hold. Tried it without the hold and was unsuccessful. When a couple of the local hard-man showed up, I asked them to give it shot. I was pretty sure they would get it, but after an honest afternoon of effort, they didn’t.
They asked me the grade, and I explained that I had not red-pointed the line as is, they were surprised that I was willing to give up the first ascent so easily. I was surprised they wouldn’t. The route has been bolted for a year, several climbers have attempted it, but none of us have succeeded. We're guessing 5.13c/d. I estimate this grade because I can do all the moves, I just can't link them in one push.

On his blog, Sharma said that they is a big difference between a first ascent and a repeat. I completely agree with him. A first ascent is different. The first ascent person put in the work, found the route, and put I the time and money to equip the route. On several occasions, I've had climbers comment about not seeing the potential for route after I bolted the route.

To me, the big difference in a first ascent and not is the lack of knowing for sure. When I do d a first ascent, they is always a possibility that the route won't go, not by me or anyone else. Once a route goes, it's known to be doable. Even without knowing the grade, the psychological factor that someone else has already done the moves makes a huge difference. Knowing they is a sequence makes it easier to try again.

Personally, I don't care if someone red tags the route or not. I do think the first ascent requires more time and effort, especially at the extreme end of the grades, but, there has to be a reasonable amount of time to finish the route. No route should keep a red-tag indefinitely. More Importantly, climbers, especially elite climbers, should request each other.

In general, most climbers are pretty respectful of other people’s projects.

The Hooker- A Review

2010-03-23T10:26:00.001+08:00

On my most recent trip to Yangshou, China, I had the opportunity to try out the “Hooker,” by Mad Rock. That’s right. I said “Hooker.” I had to wonder if this shoe was going to leave a smile on my face and a pain in my wallet. You just never know. Many things look better than they perform, and even more cost more than they’re worth. However, this Hooker didn’t disappoint.

The shoe doesn’t look like the others you’re familiar with and slipping into them is a completely new experience. The side entry lace and zipper closure, may make you do a double take, but the unique, soccer style setup makes sliding in and out of the shoe a breeze, yet still offers the good, tight fit you need to feel secure on steep, demanding technical routes.

Fit means different things to different climbers, and everytime you talk about shoes, you get another opinion on what’s important. One of the most difficult fit issues I encounter when looking for new shoes is the heel cup. The Hooker’s well sculpted heel cup allowed me to get comfortable on the sloppiest heel-hook I have ever used. It was like having a third hand.

Great! You’re saying, but what if I am not heel-hooking? Whether I was, smearing greasy slabs, edging, or fingering cracks, the Hooker always performed well. My own standard of excellence in a climbing shoe is this, if I concentrate on climbing, without thinking about my shoes, then it’s a great shoe.
After trying this “Hooker,” you should be walking away with a smile on your face and an itch to try that tough route “just one more time.”
Put me in that category. I’m hooked on the “Hooker.”

My Garage Climbing Wall

2010-03-15T14:10:00.001+08:00

A few months back my boss asked if I would be willing to relocate from my small apartment to a house in the neighborhood. This would mean giving up a few days to house shop, and my two minute walk to work, but I knew I could find a place with a nice garage, so I didn't hesitate to say "yes." I didn't want a garge for my car, but for my bouldering wall.

A few climbers installing my wall. Steel Frames are cheaper in Indonesia than wood

The main panels are amde of wood with T-nut. Here, you'll notice that each T-nut has two screws added to prevent the t-nuts from spinning. A bit more time now, but should save us tons of maintenance time in the future.

12 Feet tall and 60 degree overhung

The far right side has a small steep roof added to change the angle and add to the workout potential. The 75 degree roof starts high enough that it doesn't interfere with the lower 12 feet of traverse.

Four

A standard six footer ladder for height reference.

I'll post more images of the finished wall soon.

Southeastern Rock by Harrison Shull

2010-03-08T16:49:00.002+08:00

Having lived in the South East, I love Harrison Shull's photography. His images have done great things for making more climbers aware of the great climbing in the South East. If you like great photography and want a reason to visit the South, hang this calendar on your wall.

On the same note, Jeff Achey's guide to taking climbing photos is a fantastic book to add to your photographic skills library.

Pro CLimber meant magazine editor

2010-03-02T10:44:00.006+08:00

A great video on the state of the industry.

Simon Carter Video- How to shoot rock climbing

2010-03-02T10:11:00.004+08:00

Simon Carter is my favorite rock climbing photographer. Here he talks about what it takes to capture unique & awe-inspiring images that have launched climbing on the world stage.

If you want to see more of Simon Carter's images check out Onsight Images He's galleries and blog are definitely worth a visit.

Iran Climbing Exchange

2010-03-02T09:42:00.003+08:00

A press release from the American Alpine Club.

The American Alpine Club will conduct an climbing exchange program with the Alpine Club of Iran in 2010.

The AAC will host a delegation of ACI members at the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch from June 24 to July 4, 2010. The Alpine Club of Iran will reciprocate in late September, 2010, by hosting a delegation of ten members of the AAC in Iran.

While the focus of the exchanges will be climbing, the delegations will also engage in discussion of alpine conservation issues and programs.

5.15A

2010-02-22T16:53:00.002+08:00

A great video of hard climbing. Route is mostly mono to mono. Amzing strenght for sure. Enjoy.

IKER POU - DEMENCIA SENIL (MONTAJE 2.1) from jordi canyigueral on Vimeo.

New Season Out. Bouldering

2010-02-15T15:50:00.003+08:00

Newest episode of the Season is out. Check out the awesome boudering footage.

Surgery seems o be always on her left knee. She's very dedicated, that's for sure.

The Season Episode 3 from Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith on Vimeo.

2010-01-29T16:55:00.003+08:00

My first license of the year at Alamy. This was shot on a trip to Bali last year. The subject is actually my wife and we're preparing to photograph/watch the fire dance performance.

You can see more of my stock images here.

Hong Kong

2010-01-29T11:57:00.001+08:00

The school sent me to Hong Kong with several students for Gin conference. The conference was a forum of High School students discussing how the school they represent are moving toward a smaller carbon footprint. The Chinese International School hosted the event which was completely run by students. I was impressed with what I saw.

Sunday evening, Ernita arrived and we linked up at Time Square where students were busy shopping and eating dinner. I realize the irony of students attending a conference on reduce our impact shopping at one of Hong Kong's biggest mall.

Monday, I escorted students to check in on their flight home and they took off with the other chaperon while Ernita and I started our spring break. I have to say, if you're planning a trip to Hong Kong, get an Octopus Pass. This makes using the MTR and other public transportation a breeze.

To help Ernita adjust after her flight, we decided to spend the day at Ocean Park instead of climbing. While theme parks are not at the top of my destination list, they do offer some nice photo ops from time to time.

Tuesday, well, we're planning a climbing trip to Central Crag. Amazing, climbing in downtown Hong Kong, all accessible by MTR.

Dealing with People who don't climb

2010-01-29T09:34:00.001+08:00

Sometimes I'm asked why I climb and I think I've finally found the perfect answer. It's pretty simple really, I climb because it's more fun than not climbing. I started climbing in the 80's and three decades later, the anwser is finally here.

Climbing Magazine posted my latest piece to their site. You can read about how I interact with non-climbers in my daily life here.

Studio Shoot Ernita

2010-01-28T12:38:00.001+08:00

Spent the morning in the studio shooting Ernita. She's a wonderful and pleasant model.We decided to experiment a bit with a soft-box and did a few shots that were back-lit. Very fun. Unlike shooting outdoors, you can control everything when you shoot in a studio. Unfortunately, this means you have to control everything, I prefer just focusing on the camera and avoiding everything else.

Climbing Trash Short Design

2010-01-27T16:37:00.001+08:00

It's not often I find a climbing shirt design I like enough to mention to friends, but this one is creative. The guy who sells them uses the money to stay climbing, so I'll help him push it a bit. He has some other stuff, you can check it out here.

Thailand Rest Days

2010-01-20T14:07:00.004+08:00

Climbing trips are great, but I always have ahard time with rest days. Let's face it, I'm not so good about just seating around and killing time. I need something more interesting.

Climbing Thailand Photo Gallery

This time around, Ernita and I decided we just wanted to seat in a hot water and relax, so we headed to the hot-springs.

Local Thai Boy enjoying the hot-spring too

Ernita enjoying Mother Nature's Massage

Still Relaxing

National Geographic Grant.

2010-01-18T16:55:00.003+08:00

National Geographic is now accepting applications for its fourth annual Photography Grant, a $30,000 grant that will be awarded in early June to support the documentary work of one photographer. National Geographic Grant.

Have look.

Rock Climbing Topos Software

2010-01-15T15:54:00.006+08:00

I've been working on a couple of Rock Climbing Guides for awhile now. To help, a friend shot a link to Beta Flash, a program to help genrate climbing route topos. It's free to download. If you're writing guidebooks or posting topos to the net, check it out.

Seems easy to use so far. I'll try to use it on a photo and see how well it works then.

Aga: A Rock Climber's Guide to Okinawa should be available on Amazon soon.

Also working on a East Java Rock Guidebook. Home to have the first edition ready before Christmas of 2010.

Cardboard Boat Races

2010-01-15T12:06:00.001+08:00

I don't post about work much, but my students just participated in the Third Annual Cardboard Race. They were excited and some share these photos with me.

The rules are simple. The race is open to all students in my Middle School Math Classes. Cardboard and tape are the only two materials allowed to build the boat. Each boat must have a Flag and a name. The race is 100 meters long. At the 50 meter route, the participant must pick up a cargo on the shore and return. This year, a couple hundred people showed up to watch the show. Students then answer math questions directly related to the race. (D=RT being a sixth grade Question) These picture were given to me by parents and students. Thanks.

Photo Assignment Silhouette

2010-01-11T11:49:00.006+08:00

I've been asked to bring back the photo assignment by a couple of forums I belong too. To save time, I've decided to post the assignments here and the response thread on the actual forum sites.

Silhouettes are a wonderful way to convey drama, mystery, emotion and mood. They are an especially nice way to finish a slide show or presentation about your last climbing trip.

To shoot a silhouette, the subject needs some strong back lighting. For climbing, that normally means having the sun behind the subject. The subject should be between you and the sun. Then shoot for the brightest part of the image, normally the sky. This will underexpose the climber, turning him dark if not black.

The Subject:

Most of the time, a climber’s silhouette is best shot when the climber is being lowered from a climb near the end of the day. Make sure the shape is clear, not colors will be seen.

Bright Light

Unlike other shots, for a silhouette, you want the bright light to be behind the subject instead of in front.

Background

Like any photo, watch the background. You don’t want anything to distract from the message or image. My favorite background for this technique is bright, semi cloudless sky, with the sun setting. Very much like sunsets on Tonsai Beach in Southern Thailand. The steep and overhung routes help too.

KISS

Keep It Simple Stupid. Make sure that nothing distracts from the shape you’re aiming for. Another words, watch out for what’s in the background that might distract or silhouette itself too.

Waypoint Namibia

2010-01-07T09:16:00.005+08:00

Waypoint Namibia Trailer from Majka Burhardt on Vimeo.

Just received and email from Majka Burhart and her documentary vedio is finally out. Below is a preview of Waypoint Namibia. Should be a good video to add you any collection of climbers who want to explore the world and climb off the beaten path.

My Last Sell of 2009 Alamy

2010-01-06T09:11:00.004+08:00

Happy New years to everyone. Hope everyone had a great year.

Below is the last image I sold in 2009 with Alamy. It's been a fairly successful image for me of the last couple of years.

The photo was shot at Meada Point in Okinawa Japan while climbing with some American and Japanese friends. It was used shortly after in an article I wrote about climbing in Okinawa for Outdoor Japan Magazine.

From a climbing point of view, it's an "OK" image, non-climbers are the one who really like it. Different audiences have different back grounds. I will say, climbing images make better money outside of the outdoor industry.

Happy New Years and best wishes.

CAMP-

2010-01-05T15:13:00.004+08:00

While traveling this summer, I came across a good deal and picked up a dozen Camp Quickdraws. I have to admit, Camp isn't the first company I think off when I buy QD,or other gear for that matter, but Camp sure has come a long ways over the years.

I'm willing to bet that Tricams keep the lights on at the Camp warehouse these days.

I started using TriCams in High school when my partner and I decided we could get more TriCams for our money and passed on the cams. They were Lowe Tricams at that time and they were perfect for pin scars we soon learned.

Armed a set of BD Stoppers, A set of micro nuts, two sets of hexes, and the full line of the original tricams, we headed up our first wall, Washington Column in Yosemite.

Topo by Fish

I learned to Tricams them and rarely leave the ground without at least the first half of the set hanging on my harness. This is especially true when establishing ground up first ascents on Asian Limestone. I have to admit, I plan on keeping a closer eye on CAMPS new product over the coming years.

Malaysia

2009-12-17T12:49:00.002+08:00

I am packing the climbing and photography gear for my trip to Malaysia.

We've rented a car, our goal is to hit the main climbing areas between Kuala Lampur and the Thailand Border. We'll spend the last couple or days rock climbing at Batu Cave, but I hope to get some nice gear routes along the way.

If all goes well, we'll have loads of photos and some good climbing too.

Strength of Expansion Bolts

2009-12-15T10:01:00.003+08:00

Published by the BMC, these guidance documents cover in depth the issues involved in using, placing and replacing bolt protection and belays. Good reading for climbers who plan on replacing or placing new bolts.

Chapter 1: Strength of Expansion Bolts

Posted using ShareThis

Preparing Students

2009-12-15T09:29:00.001+08:00

At a recent conference, the presenter went on and on about the importance of “technology” in the classroom. He spoke to us like we were unaware that our students needed to use “technology” in order to be successful today and in the future. His argument was simple; we need to teach our kids to be ready to use technology that haven’t been developed. We need to prepare them for career field that don’t exist today. We do this by exposing them to more computer time.
I wasn’t there to hear about what we were preparing students for. I wanted to learn how to prepare them; unfortunately, my presenter never got that far. Like most teachers, I know what I am preparing students for; the concept hasn’t changed since I was student.
I am preparing my students to think for themselves. I want my students to be inquisitive and to ask questions about everything. I want them to question what they read, what they hear, and what they see. I especially want them to question their choices and actions. I want my students to accept responsibility for their actions and to understand that their actions affect others. I want them to know and understand all this, while living in a world full of diversity.
Technology is a tool, one that that can and will make my teaching goals easier to achieve. Technology well used and implemented lessons makes more the material relevant and interesting to students, but technology is the end all. Technology is just one tool that helps us achieve our goals, but not the tool that will solve all our problems.
Right now, technology is the education buzz word of the day. In most cases, when educators talk about technology, they are referring to computers, but that’s not the only technology. Technology is a tool to help us do something more efficiently.
When man still lived in caves, fire was technology. As man evolved, so did the use of fire. We don’t wait on lighting to strikes to start a fire anymore, we moved on to using rocks, then sticks, matches, and now electricity ignites our stoves. Students have always needed to be prepared for technology that doesn’t exist yet. Cavemen couldn’t have been taught how to deal with agriculture or industry; both were something they could not have imagined. They did learn to adjust to those new technologies; I’m sure some resisted initially.
Teaching kids to be critical thinkers prepares them for the challenges they will face. By teaching my students to work with abstract concepts and using open ended question, I’m preparing to adjust to new information and technology that I can’t even fathom.

My Rock Climbing Rack

2009-12-04T09:32:00.004+08:00

I’VE RECEIVED A COUPLE OF INQUIRIES ABOUT MY CLIMBING GEAR. So, I’ve decided to post my rack here. I am not a big gear guy, but it does seem to have piled up over the years.

A few years ago, I decided to have a rack in Asia and one in the USA to make my international traveling easier. Luggage weight is hard to meet when you start taking a full rack and a full line of camera gear back and forth.

Rope, Draws & Slings

• Blue Water, Sterling, and Edelweiss are my preferred choices. I normally climb on 10 to 10.6mm. When I live in the states, I was climbing on 9.6 because I was mostly repeating routes. I’ve switched to bigger diameters now because first ascents mean my ropes take more abuse.
• 20 Quickdraws All Black Diamond with Wiregates on each end. Wiregates do well when I climb on beaches. They are also fairly light.
• 20 slings 24 inches folded over in thirds. I don’t carry shorter sling on trad lines. I like the option of lengthening or shorting the slings I have. Each sling has two Black Diamond Nutrino. These are great caribiners with wiregate.

Belay
• Petzl GriGri
• Black Diamond ATC Guide
• Soloist
• Also have a jaws belay device
• More random belay devices around. Most are for people to use when we climb together. I also have some figure eight, but I mostly used those for managing belay stations when I have a large group sharing an anchor. (Belay Rigging Plate)

Active & Passive Protection
• Four Full set of Black Diamond Camelot. (two sets in the states, two sets in Asia)
• Two each Alien to yellow. One biner holds one of each size.
• Half a set of Tri Cams
Omega Link Cams- Love them, and migth do an entire bigwall first ascent on link cams alone this year.
• Small Loweballs
• Various tcu including some hold spider cams. Most are Metolius.
• Set of BD stoppers, One Set DMM Walnuts, Two set DMM Peanuts, Set of BD micros
• BD hooks, various types.
Shoes
• FiveTen Anasazi Slipper and laces. 3 or 4 pairs
• Lasportiva Mythos
Montreal, several different models, but the Zealots are my favorite. Just wish they were not black. To bad Montreal has discontinued it's line of climbing shoes, they were great shoes.

Harnesses
• Misty Mountain, forget what model. Can't go wrong with Misty, that's for sure.

Other
• BD haul Bags Two
• Pike Double Porta Ledge with fly
• Two sets of Jumars
• Shunt but rarely use
• Bosh 24 volt rotary hammer with extra battery

I’m sure they is more, but that’s it for now.

2009-12-03T12:30:00.002+08:00

A nice video sent to me by a good friend. Spectacular footage of hard trad climbing.

Enjoy

Wheelin N' Dealin from Matt McCormick on Vimeo.

Indonesia Fund

2009-11-26T11:33:00.002+08:00

Raisin money to get Indonesia on the rock climbing map. All money raised will be used to develop rock climbing in Indonesia, to help Indonesian climbers travel to climbing destination they normally couldn't afford, and to make existing routes in Indonesia safe with good quality anchors.

When enough funds are raised, Indonesian climbers will be able to ask for a grant to establish new routes in Indonesia. Grant received will be listed here and so will trip report. A separate site is being created to consolidate an English Climbing resource on climbing areas of Indonesia.

All I can do is provide my word that the funds will be used as stated above.

Rock climbing Sponsorship SIN??

2009-11-20T16:20:00.005+08:00

I’m not sure when Scott wrote “Is Sponsorship a Sin,” but it’s making its way around the internet and seems to be bringing up various points of view. If nothing else, some conversations have been had. For me, is seems that Scott is just trying to write something that people will talk about so people show up to his slide shows and read his blog. Like many things today, it’s vague and lacks any real contributions. Even the slide presentation is held, from what I saw on the video, was lacking in any defiant examples.

Personally, I read just about everything I can get my hands on, and that includes Climbing Magazine. While I don’t read every single article and I don’t stare at every photo trying to figure out what gear is being used, I do enjoy seeing nice photos and reading about other climbers’ adventures. I especially like reading about places I haven’t seen or climbed yet. If that’s seen as athlete self promotion, so be it.

Athlete’s self-promotion and writing their own articles for magazines or in a blog is not unlike other industries. Let’s face it, being published on a regular basis makes you more credible and noticed. No-one is standing at the top of cliffs waiting for an athlete to send a new route or push a new grade. Personally, I’m glad of that. In the case of people publishing their adventures that are not on cutting edge routes, if the writing is good, I read it. I especially love to read about locations that are new, regardless of how hoard the routes are.

Scott wants thing that are “RAD” and “advances the sport.” To be honest here, I’m not sure how Scott decides what’s RAD and what’s not. I guess climbing on the high end of the scale is the key, but in climbing, the grades are suggestive. Besides, wouldn’t a 26 pitch 5.10 in Antarctica be more “rad” than a 60ft 5.14 sport route near downtown Boulder. Even a new 20 pitch 5.10 in a remote part of Indonesia is a contribution to the sport in my humble opinion.

During the last few years I’ve been developing routes in South East Asia. Of the over 1000 routes, 80% are sport routes. My routes range from 5.6 to 5.13c. When I see other climbers in these areas, most of them are climbing the sport routes that are 5.11 and below. My 5.13c has seen one other ascent; the 5.13 B has seen a dozen attempts in two years with no-one reaching the belay chains. When you consider the amount of people who climb and play on the 5.9-5.11 in the area, you could say that those routes have had more contributions to climbing than the hard sport routes. Like it or not, the far majority of climber don’t climb harder than 5.11, and most of us like to read about routes that we can do.

In my option, hard climbing is not the only thing that advances the sport, especially from a gear manufacturer’s point of view. Route development, especially in the recreational grades, advances the sport much more. I’m not sure about climbers across the world, but most climbers I personally know value esthetic lines over pure difficulty. Don’t believe me, check out how many people attempt to climb the Nose in Yosemite versus how many attempt the Reticent Wall around the corner.

Scott claims that athlete lie when they do their write up, if that the case, then shame on them. What I would like to know who these climbers are? Another words Scott, give me specifics instead of vague accusations.
I’d like to know who is lying to the climbing community?
Who is embellishing their stories?

I don’t know anyone who condones lying, but I know lots of people who enjoy reading about other people’s climbing adventure. When I read something, I know that the author is writing about it from his point of view. What’s hard for them might be easy or impossible for me.

In the 1990’s, I owned and managed a guide service in Tennessee. I often received guide resumes from very strong climbers that I would not hire. Their climbing skills were good, but their teaching skills were not. They could not understand or didn’t remember what it was like to be a beginner; this made it hard to teach new climbers. On the other hand, I had many climbers who were very safe but didn’t climb hard who made excellent instructors. They had the skills needed to teach beginners to climb, they were safe, and most importantly, they had a personally that people enjoyed.

Being sponsored is the same; the strongest climber might not know how to get his sponsors brand notices. It’s better to have a climber understand that sponsorship is about marketing the brand, not just climbing hard. Sponsorship is about getting the brand noticed, not just being the strongest and best climber. Because climbing is a sport where recreational climbers climb next to the elite climbers at the crags, individual personality and people skills are a factor in being sponsored. Regardless of how hard you climb, personality is important.

Personally, I find blind and random accusations more insulting and hurting to climbing, then someone who self promotes or writes about their latest climbing adventure.

Sponsorship a sin?

2009-11-18T10:36:00.003+08:00

I'll post my view soon. For, watch the video and see what you decide.

Is Sponsorship a Sin? from Scott Semple on Vimeo.

9 Rules of Climbing

2009-11-12T10:24:00.002+08:00

Enjoy

The Dentist and I

2009-10-08T11:44:00.003+08:00

I moved to Asia in 2000 and I've been pretty good about avoiding the dentist. Not because of health care cost; my insurance covers my dental work and has for the last ten years. My avoidance is mostly because of my long history with dental professionals.

I didn't realize I avoided the dentist until my wife pointed out that I canceled three appointments last school year alone. So we scheduled ourselves for a cleaning. It was three months away and when the time came, I was caught off guard with no good excuse to avoid the trip.

During the 30 minute ride through Surabaya traffic, my anxiety level was high. I'm not sure if it was thinking about the dentist, or driving that caused it. I blame my fear of dentists on my mother. As a child, she told me that there are two people in this world you can never trust, used car salesmen, "it’s a great car with no problems,” and dentists, “this won’t hurt a bit.” She felt that even politicians were more trustworthy than dentists, but both were in it for your money, nothing more.

Like any visit to the dentist, I walked into the waiting room a few minutes before my appointment, but I still managed to read several back issues of Indonesian Cosmo, and a few months of BMW magazine. Neither is high on my reading list, but I’d forgotten my book at home. Sure would be nice if dentists read climbing magazines or had some crossword puzzles to solve.

After my reading time, I was ushered into one of the most modern dental chairs I’ve ever seen. The chair alone terrified me. A modern day torture device complete with recording equipment so the dentist can enjoy the show long after I was gone.

The Indonesian dentist spoke perfect English and gave blow by blow details of what to expect. (Reminded me of the doctor who describe the cut and procedure in real time when I split my head open last year.) I was scared, so I listened carefully. She spoke like an ex KGB interrogator who enjoyed the pain she was about to deliver.

To clarify the process and procedure, she used a pen size, 8 megapixel cameras to photograph various part of my mouth. The images were displayed on a large computer screen directly in front of me. I was not happy with what I saw, or the pain I would soon endure to clean all the areas she pointed out. She spent a few more minutes explaining to me that she would use high pressure water and hydro sonic devices to clean my teeth. I listened, but I was considering asking, no, begging, for Novocain. These new dental tools would surely admit more pain than my previous experiences.

She spent 45 minutes cleaning my teeth, and with the exception of some cold air on a few sensitive teeth, I felt nothing. It was a dental first for me. This was so different from any other dentist experience I ever faced. The only thing that was missing was a smile from the dentist. She didn’t even try to engage in conversation while working in my mouth.

My first time seeing a dentist office, I was seven years old. At the time, my family and I lived on a sailboat and were cruising the African Continent’s coast line. While at sea, my mother cracked a tooth, and it took a few weeks before she committed herself to a local dentist. She couldn’t eat, so she caved in.

The local dentist office wasn’t much more than a storefront with a big wooden chair. Local men gathered outside and chatted, while the “dentist” worked inside. The front was a giant window and passersby, or your son, could watch what was going from outside, while playing marbles with bottle tops.

A few minutes after mom entered, the dentist came out and spoke in local dialect to the men outside. They stood, looked at each other, and two entered, washed their hands, and became the dental hygienists.

In this situation, my mother, being frugal and not wanting to pay extra for a crown, decided to have the bad tooth removed. The two men from outside used some leather belts to secure my mother firmly to the chair, and the dentist removed the tooth with some very gnarly looking pliers. To this day, neither my mother nor I remember any form anesthesia or numbing. No shots for sure, just brute force, which my mother’s face showed for the next week and a half. She looked more like a prize fighter than a loving mom.

A few years later, it was time for me to get my own teeth straightened. After several second opinions, my mother agreed that I needed braces. To save some money, we used the LSU dental school for the process. My mother was always good a providing what was needed on a tight budget.

The process started with having four teeth pulled. I had nightmares for a week, with reoccurring flashbacks of my mother’s single tooth being pulled in Africa. How would I ever survive four teeth at once? When we arrived at the LSU dental school, I refused to move and fought hard enough, that my mother recruited a couple of the school’s linebackers to help drag me into the building. I couldn't eat for a week after the procedure.

A year later, a surgeon decided braces weren’t enough to fix my 10.5 MM overbite, and helped my mother find a suitable student program to get my lower jaw surgically extended. I was twelve, and had to have all four of my wisdom teeth impacted at once. Because of the upcoming surgery, I could only have local and mild anesthesia. While the surgeon was extracting my second tooth, the numbing effect wore off, and I was wide awake. My mother, who stands 5 foot 1 inches, had to be physically removed by security with the effort she put up to protect me. I was too small to fight and had the other two teeth removed with little to no numbness. My face swelled like an allergic reaction to bee stings. I ate watery pistachio pudding for two weeks.

My jaw surgery was scheduled for July to avoid missing too much school. According to surgeons, the surgery was simple and I would recover in time for class mid August, but there were “complications.” Originally, two titanium screws were suppose to hold the jaw in place. One screw on each side would prevent the jaw bone from sliding back, but while placing the second, screw, the drill torque had pulled my jaw out of alignment. To restraighten the jaw, a third screw was placed near the first to pull the jaw back into place. Because of the tug-a-war, surgeons decided that my jaw needed to be wired closed for eight weeks. Once again, my diet consisted of blended fruit and pistachio pudding to keep my weight on. I still lost nearly 20 pounds and showed up to a new school with my mouth wired shut. My Public speaking teacher showed little sympathy and still had me enunciating my presentations using a “Loud and Proud” voice.

A few years in the U.S. military did nothing to change my mind about dentists, and when I was finally finished with my service, I managed to break my front teeth in between insurance policies. Even with two broken teeth, my partners and I contemplated the possibility of intended climbing route. We were two hours into a two and half hour approach when we turned back.

The first dentist office we walked in threw us out; the second had a dentist who refused to see us because it was after 3:00 on a Friday afternoon. We drove for three hours before a surgeon would inject me with some Novocain and clean my mouth to prevent infection. Almost a year passed before my Jaw bone was strong enough to handle the two implants I needed. A year was gone. I needed to beg, borrow, and earn ten grand to pay for the procedure, which end up being scheduled about the time my house burned down. A year after the implant surgery, while living in Japan, one of the crowns fell off and I had to fly back to America because the implants were obsolete by Japanese standards. No Japanese dentist would work on them.

On the drive home, I thought about my history of dental work and how much better this experience was. Who would have guessed that a trip to the dentist could be so pleasant? Especially in a third world country like Indonesia.

I Fly Air Asia

2009-09-19T11:02:00.001+08:00

I am surprised to say, some people who are not friends or family actually read my blog. I know this because I get a emails almost daily asking for advice and beta on climbing in the region. I don’t mind answering the questions, and in some cases, I can even meet a few of the climbers when they climb in the region.

One of the most often asked question is, “how can you afford to fly to all these places one a teacher’s salary?” Simple, I live in Asia and I’ve discovered www.airasia.com I use them, and I love them.

Air Asia is a budget airline, so the number one reason I love them is the price. The tickets aren’t 10 or 20 bucks cheaper, they are more like 50% lower than other airline. In some cases, you can fly places for just the tax of the ticket. Roughly 5 USD.

Safety seems to be high on people list when flying budget style airline. If I read and understand everything correctly, Air Asia very modern jets are maintained by GE Engine Services and Volvo are both involved in maintaining the planes.
Budget carrier they are, the plane are modern and well maintained. The reason they can offer cheap fare is that they ship a lot of freight. The freight is where they make the money, people are just icing on the Air Asia cake.

Because they focus on freight and cheap fares, the plane tend to be very lean. You won’t find TV screen or be provided meals unless you prepay for them. You also have to check yourself into every single flight. This means collecting you luggage and rechecking your luggage at every connection. A small price to pay in my opinion, but something to consider when you book a flight.
Air Asia is not a full service provider. When booking your tickets, you must find all your own connecting flight on the site. In most cases, you need to route yourself through Kuala Lumpur before finishing your route. Each ticket and connection is a separate ticket and if you miss the connection, you get no refund.
While on the website, you can order a meal or increase your luggage weight. Both are cheaper online than on site. As a climber and photographer, I almost always increase my luggage and my wife’s luggage to 30 kilos. Even with a 30 Kilo increase and in in-flight meal, I save loads of money. How much?
In September, for my trip to Borneo, I’ve price a couple of tickets. The cheapest I found was for 625.00USD per person. I cruise over to Air Asia’s website and was able to book two ticket with 30 kilos of luggage round-trip for under 425.00 USD. The tow of us will fly for cheaper than one of us would have. We do have a 8 hour layover, but that won’t 800 bucks to me. They are basically paying us 100 bucks an hour to wait.

Air Asia as anew bus for the KL to London fight with a nice lay down seat in first class. For our trip to Europe next year, my wife and I can have a bed seat on the long flight for almost same price as economy seats on other airlines. Can you guess which I’ll be flying.

Shooting Kayakers

2009-09-12T08:02:00.006+08:00

While in Colorado, Ernita and I had the opportunity to shoot some kayakers on the Arkansas River. These were shot from the bank of the river. We were not planting on doing more than a casual hike along the shore when these guys started to play. Yet another reason to always have you camera with you.

Vertical Ethiopia- Rock climbing in Africa

2009-09-01T12:02:00.008+08:00

While in Boulder Colorado this summer, I picked up a copy of "Vertical Ethiopia." Author Majka Buhardt and Photographer Gabe Rogel have done a nice job Documenting the journey of four women climbers in search of first ascents near the Horn of Africa.

I read this on the plane ride home and decided to add it to my coffee table at home. Even my non-climbing friends have enjoyed reading the book or checking out the photos.

I enjoyed the climbing story as much as the cultural aspect the writer explores. Of course, I do enjoy traveling to places climbers have not ventured, but for the locals and the climbing.

If you get a chance, pick up a copy and add this book to your bookshelf or coffee table.

Wedding Day Emmanuel and Ernita

2009-08-31T09:43:00.009+08:00

Well, my climbing partner and I decided to get get married. We had a nice, big by my standards, but tiny by Asian customs, ceremony.

Ernita and I at the Church

One of the great things about a Catholic Church, regardless of where they are, everything is on time. Even here in Indonesia, where everything runs late, starts late, and last longer then expected, the Church started on schedule and lasted exactly one hour. We were both very happy about that.

At the hotel

Enjoy the photos:

Indonesian Climbing Fund Chip-in

2009-07-24T11:49:00.005+08:00

Climbing Climbing Climbing

2009-07-12T00:11:00.005+08:00

I have been climbing in Colorado with Ernita for the past month. I have to say, her climbing skills have improved quite bit. She should be ready for a Big Wall climbing adventure when we return to Indonesia.

School is still a mont away, but I do have a few rock climbing goals for Surabaya and Indonesia. One is to establish a 20 plus pitch route this school year. I already have the cliff in mind. I'd also like to develop a few new routes near Kidiri. The basalt cracks on that cliff look awsome. Some routes should be about 9 pitches long and I only plan on establishing a couple of rappel lines. I may do Bolted belays for speed on future descents.

On a seperate note, Climbing.com just published my second blog entry. The post is about how climbing has helped me break cultural barrier on my travels around the world.

Read it here let me know what you think.

Better Late

2009-06-03T13:20:00.002+08:00

It's been over a month since Ernita and I have returned from Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, and I am just now able to get a few photos posted.

Deciding what to do.

Decision made, time to climb

Ed, a doctor on break spent some time climbing with us.

We only spent an extended weekend in the area. One day was dedicated to the standard tourist sites with a photographer contact. The other two days, we spent climbing at Batu Cave.

A fun route to warm up on.

Batu cave is Malaysia's most developed climbing area. It has roughly 400 routes from 5.6 to 5.14. Most are single pitch sport routes, but over a dozen of the routes are three pitches.

I had heard loads of rumors about the climbing near KL, but I had to see it for myself. I can now officially say, Malaysia is at the top of my "want to there" list. Batu cave is less then 30 minutes from the school, so I could finish teaching and still make it to the cliff in time to do a couple of routes. The people are friendly, and KL has a large book store full of books in English. I do miss book stores.

Climbing Magazine Blog

2009-06-01T09:54:00.004+08:00

Climbing.com Blogs

For some unknown reason, climbing.com seems to think people will actually read what I have to say. Looks like they have created a blog for me. Kind of nice, now I have one more reason to actually write something on a regular basis.

My first post on discovering a new climbing area in China can be read HERE.

Most of the post should be about climbing around South East Asia, but if you have any ideas, have been on a trip with me, or want to add something fun my ideas, let me know. My next entries will be about my Colorado climbing trip coming up next week.

Cheers
Eman

My Climbing Magazine Blog.

www.okinawaclimbing.com

2009-05-27T15:43:00.003+08:00

Well, after a long wait, I've finally manage to launch the new Okinawa Rock Climbing website. The site is an online guide to basic climbing information on Okinawa, Japan's fastest growing climbing scene.

The site also has a user's photo

http://www.okinawaclimbing.com/

Summer, Summer, Summer

2009-05-07T10:17:00.004+08:00

Well, summer is almost here. It will be nice to relax a bit, but I'll also miss my students and classes. Of course, I need the break too recoup and recover from the school year. School keeps me busy, but I keep myself busy during summer.

On the climbing front, I'll base myself near Boulder Colorado this summer. The area has a ton of great climbing, nice hiking, and some culture in town too.

I don't have any specific route goals really, but two routes are definitely on my list. One is the Book on Lumpy and the other is Country Club Crack in Boulder. If I feel psychologically strong, I attempt the Edge in Eldorado too.

Once I'm back in Indonesia, I'd like to spend a few days putting up a big wall route at Spikel. I have two routes scouted out and I think both will go with minimal bolts. I plan on bolting the belays to make getting down easy. I also have one potential 15 pitch sport route in mind near Spikel. Of course, the Kidiri cliff is always on my list for new crack routes, I just need a crack climbing partner.

I have a few photo projects to work on. I started many of them during the school year, but with more down time during the summer, I should be able to finish a lot of them.

Two books on photography:

The first is on photographing animals in the zoo. Simple and straight forward, this book has animal photos and how they were shot. Some used the zoo features to tell the story, while other were shot from angles to make the animal appear non-captive. A fun project.

Second book is on photographing rock climbers. I doubt I'll get this one finished, but I should be able to get a lot more shots for the illustrations.

I'll also be finishing my website and making it live in July. E Squared photography and Images will cover adventure sports and Asia travel. Images from around the U.S.A. will also be available.

Sounds like a few people will come visit while I am in Colorado, one being my mother. It's her first time to Colorado and I think she's excited. While in the area, I might some some house shopping, but I think I'll be buying next summer, not this summer. Colorado and Nevada top my list of places to buy right now.

Home Safe

2009-04-03T11:18:00.006+08:00

Well, I am home safe and sound from a few days of climbing in Malaysia. During the next couple of days, I'll process some photos and get them posted here.

As many of you know, I have considered a move to Malaysia before. I've heard such great things about the National Parks and preserves, not to mention the 400 routes available at Batu Cave, just twenty minutes from down town. This trip was a recon to confirm the rumors.

On the climbing front, I was impressed with Batu cave. Twenty minutes by taxi from the Twin Towers. Routes there ranged from 5.7 to 5.14 on spectacular limestone. Approaches were easy, short, and accessible. The routes were up to three pitches and within minutes of the parking area.

So, my conclusion is, YES, I WOULD LIVE THERE. I could easily get a few routes/pitches in at Batu cave at the end of the work day. On weekends, I could escape the city and climbing long Granite routes outside of the city. Malaysia is now at the top of my list for places to live.

With that said, I am now back at work in Indonesia. I love my job here. I'll be doing some nice sport routes this weekend, and I have a long weekend next week. RIght now, the plan is to establish a new route or at Spikul. If all goes well, I should be able to climb a nice 150 crack I spotted last trip and a Dihedral to Undercling roof line on the left of the formation too. Looks like eight or nine pitches of fairly clean climbing.

Cheers,
Photos from Malaysia coming soon.

Access Fund Press Release

2009-03-25T13:50:00.005+08:00

I received this press released and decided my blog would be a nice way to get the word out even more. As many of you know, I've spent a lot of my recent climbing time developing new climbing routes, whole areas actually, but prior to living in Asia, I spent as much time trying to keep climbing areas open. I was very active with the AF then, now I just support financial when I can. Living in Asia make sit harder to be so hands on.

The press release:

Press release from the Access Fund

After passing in the House, the $800 billion economic stimulus bill is heading for the Senate. This massive stimulus package hopes to put three million people to work on short-term projects that will have lasting benefits.

If passed, this bill will allocate a large amount of funding to federal land management agencies - the same agencies that manage many of our country's most treasured climbing areas. These agencies, including US Park Service, US Forest Service, and Bureau of Land Management, will spend up to $3 billion of stimulus money on construction-related projects such as road maintenance. And while we don't have influence on whether this bill passes, we do have the opportunity to make suggestions on where this funding will be spent, and help these agencies prioritize projects in and around our climbing areas.

We need your input on potential projects
The Access Fund has joined forces with other members of the Outdoor Alliance to compile a list of infrastructure projects that are important to the active outdoor recreation community. We will put this list in front of the federal land management agencies during upcoming meetings in Washington, D.C. to provide guidance on how to spend this stimulus money.

We need to hear from you! This is your chance to propose a project or highlight a problem with a road, trail, river, or landscape in your back yard that needs increased financial support. Suggestions might include design of new roads, bridges, trails, remediation of abandoned mine sites, and even restoration projects. Please take the following brief survey by Friday February 6 and provide as much information about your suggested project as possible. Take the survey: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=KqE2ywB1t83FFe9E9eJ_2bvw_3d_3d

Thank you!

Malaysia

2009-03-17T11:58:00.008+08:00

Well, it's almost spring break and I am headed to Malaysia for a few days of climbing and photography in KL.

I've never been to Malaysia, but I now have a couple of local contacts who have agreed to show me the cliff and routes at Batu cave. The climbing community there seems variant, excited, and large. Without living the city limits, locals have established almost 500 routes from 5,7 to 5.14. Amazing.

A local photographer has also agree to adopt me for a day or two to roam and shoot photos. Sounds like it might be part of a club outing, but I'm not sure yet. Regardless, It will be nice to have a local shoot me around. I'm sure I get to see the real KL instead of just the super tourist one. his excellent blog is here: http://lordmint.blogspot.com

My goal, 50 climbing routes, 1000 photos, and a variety of excellent local food. . Should be doable. I'll also be exploring KL from a future home point of view. I'd like to live somewhere where I can hike, climb, and play outdoors easily. KL seems to offer that.

Any advice, must see, must do, must eats, let me know. If you're in KL and want to hook up to climb or shoot photos, let me too.

Cheers
Eman

My Animal Ways

2009-02-11T12:19:00.008+08:00

Photos from my recent visit to Bali, Indonesia. Mostly birds, which I normally don't shoot. It was a fun exercise for sure. Birds love to avoid the camera and never stop moving. Add trees, back lighting, and wind to the equation, and you have a wonderful photogrpahy challenge. I have new respect for bird photographers for sure.

King Fisher

Royal Crowned

Australian Pelican

Pigeon Dove

Great Green Macaw

King Fisher

Blue and Gold Macaw

Sacred Ibis

Long Tailed Monkey